Mechanic on the go

08/29/2024

https://www.facebook.com/reel/823286516537295?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v

10/07/2022

09/21/2021

Well its been likely said better but, sometimes customers have a way of pulling the last string... I've had more then my share an more times then I care to recall however, I still try my best to keep my lid on. So for those who bare with me... THANK YOU!
An no I'm not loosing my mind but, thought it would be a good time to show a little appreciation to those of you who are considerate.

Just thought I'd share today. Hope everyone enjoys a wonderful day an until next time ya'll take care now ya hear!

08/25/2021

Well the mechanical forecast said a chance of getting greasy an engine removal afterwards...

Make sure ya stay hydrated today! Definitely a hot one an glad I'm out of the sun with a fan nearby...

04/26/2021

Hello again my friends!

Pictured here is what a timing belt looks like and can do when "not" changed on time... also pictured is what it should look like in operating conditions.

Pro tip: these absolutely MUST be changed every 60,000 - 105,000 miles! NO EXCEPTIONS! This one In particular actually made it over that range and the owner was quite fortunate that it did not destroy his engine as it is a interference engine... which means when a timing belt breaks on a interference engine the valves will come in contact with the piston and ultimately destroy the the valves and heads. Leading to most likely engine replacement.

If you have a engine with a timing belt I'll suggest finding out if its been replaced and if not get it done immediately if its over the service range so you'll know its been done. Also,most timing kits come with a $30-50 upgrade to add a water pump and because almost all of them are behind the timing belt and are definitely disturbed when the belt is changed i highly recommend changing the pump when this is done. You'll thank me later...

Well thats all for now so hope you find my post insights helpful and enjoy another great day!

So until next time ya'll take care now ya hear!

02/11/2021

Hello again to all the mechanic on the go friends!

Heres a good pro tip for your 4x4 vehicles that you'll be likely using in this weather.

So alot of the newer 4x4 vehicles have what I call a push button or turn dial 4 wheel engage control. In these systems it has an electronic control panel that works your transfer case from 4x4 to 2x4 an back again. This switch if not used frequently will get a contact barrier over it that will prevent your 4x4 from engaging when needed or disengaging when not necessary.

I get this call all to often...

This call can be avoided by frequently engaging all selections on this switch back an forth WHILE THE VEHICLE IS NOT MOVING! (I say this because I've seen a few transfer cases that I picked up in pieces because it was engaged while moving. ) this frequent activity on that switch will keep your contacts in better working condition. If however, in the case it gets stuck in this position continue to function this control like an adolescent child until that selector starts working again. In the case that you've spent more then a half hour working it back an forth an having no results your control may have actually failed an may need replaced.(get it diagnosed properly)This is definitely best done before any storm required 4x4 is needed an I would recommend at least once a month or every time you happen to think about it.

So if your out an about with your trusty 4x4 an that lights out or the 4x4 is stuck engaged or disengaged... work that switch systematically as if you can feel it engage an disengaging while the vehicles running an when it does what you want it to continue to do it again and again till it goes in an out every single time before leaving it alone. You'll be glad you did as those controllers can cost several hundred dollars an a proper process to install so that you won't destroy it on install or void warranty.

So hopes that helps you in the future an be sure an give me a like an share as it can help others be aware an save them a great deal of expense when they can't afford it especially...

So until next time be careful on those icy snow covered roads an we'll see you next time!

Your
Mechanic.

01/01/2021

Well everyone I tried coming out.... but ,I seen my shadow!

I've got proof!

Yup!

So Going back to the house till next year so until then hold tight cuz I ain't doing nothing till then!

Hope you'll have a wonderful New Year!

12/13/2020

Hello again!

Today I thought I'd give a little insight on Cummings engineering. Well I know some live by them some also die by them... lol but, on a more serious note its winter an every problem in the book seems to rare its ugly head. So id like to address a couple for awareness.

#1- dodge in general operates its electrical systems different then most American made vehicles. That said all of them are on a 12 volt system as a rule but, dodge converts its power supply to most firing components/ components that keep the vehicle running to a 5 volt power supply. Why is this something of concern? Well dodge owners biggest enemy is battery cables. Yup! Sounds crazy I know but, until you've seen how many people come pulling in with a terrible misfire an replaced everything they can possibly think of an I can simply change a battery cable or cable end an occasionally a battery an its running like new you would just have to see it for yourself. An just for the records once the computer determined its the battery connection/ electrical issue its not going to stop acting up until its fixed correctly. I cannot say this enough!

#2 this is more Cummings related as I've been asked to share what I do know as an issue. Check engine lights are NOT just idiot lights! Unless you are the guinea pig. Know what your check engine light is.
Throttle position sensors are a problem in the 5.9l as I've experienced. (Not saying other engines don't have this issue) this issue can be mis diagnosed from a battery issue but, if the battery issue is corrected an your still experiencing problems pull the codes on it an see see what its saying. A P2109 code is present its likely the issue. Now anybody can try to change this part an everyone can do it wrong... so heres a few helpful tips. 1st if you don't like it causing alot of problems get a Mopar part. After market parts ive put in have continued to fail me numerous times even some very good quality ones. Mopar will cost more but, you'll likely never mess with it again. 2nd DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY 1ST before unplugging the sensor. I cannot stress this enough as without doing this you will burn the new one up.

#3 this again deals with Cummings engines. Lift pumps... they also fail an I have had better success with Mopar pumps then aftermarket but, I'm not as particular about them as throttle position sensors. Not hard to change an highly recommend changing the fuel filter at the same time. If this is a problem you need to repair this ASAP! if you don't your injection pump will starve for fuel an burn out prematurely. That happens an your looking at over a thousand dollars in repairs that very likely could have been avoided.

So hope this helps a few of you diesel guys out there an I'm gonna leave ya with that for now so hope all your breakdowns don't leave ya to far in the red or on the side of the road to far from home! 😀

Hope y'all enjoyed this read an we'll see ya next time!

09/13/2020

Hello everybody!

So here's Part 2 from my original post "A must read" click the link if ya missed it.
https://www.facebook.com/123101241467060/posts/843581889418988/

So ive not really had any feed back on this post with the exception of two good friend's Jerry Thompson. Who stated his oil changes were done by the dealer on their recommendations. (Which is better than alot of folks I know) so 👍 Jerry an thank you!

I also had 101 views of the original post which as of today is a record breaker as I'm impressed there still is a great deal of people interested in how the oil change can drastically change the performance and longevity of their vehicles. So thank you too everyone who at least didn't give me any negative feedback... 😁

An I did get one thumbs up from a young fella way out in the rice field country Mr. Ron Pettypool ! An I most certainly appreciated that Ron thank you.

So all the recognition over with all the now famous followers of Mechanic on the go! We shall move on! Lol

So, I addressed a few things an asked i know of (6) points in your oil change service you watch for. Since these topics get rather long I'll address one at a time in different posts an bring up any feedback from the previous post members are interested in. So post an share away! Also ,for those of you who do share an get a comment on it can you please notify me when this happens as I sometimes don't see it otherwise. Fo

So here we go!

#1 time of oil change.

#2 why

#3 brands

#4 filter type

#5 filter change between oil changes.

#6 engine flush

Soooooooo. Let's discuss why your oil change is necessary.
Oil 1st off has a detergent value that in some brands are significantly better then others. This is why you hear of such horror stories of engine failure when switching from a particular grade or brand of oil an going to something you've been sold on. (It can be done with caution. ) the best example i can give with this is: fill two kitchen sinks with water as to wash dishes. In the 1st one put the cheapest dish soap you can buy from your local store in the quantity of (2) table spoons, an in the 2nd one grab some really good Dawn dish soap an also add (2) tables spoons in. Now for the 1st experiment try (2) bacon greased plates an wash one in each sink individually an see how long it takes to clean those plates effectively. Well I'm pretty sure all of you would say definitely dawn is better. Why? Detergent value. Now personally I don't know how to find the actual value of the detergent in dish soap or oil but, I do know the difference in results.

This brings us to your second thought on why you should change your oil on time. Ya see that same (2) sinks filled with dish soap water left sitting for say 12 hours an kept heated will prove a second issue compared to oil... yup! Again I believe all would say if you tried washing something in each sink dawn would win again! An not only that I would go as far to say its likely the only one that has any soap/detergent value at all!

So heres what I found out in my research. Most of the converts who changed oil an had engine problems went from a brand such as pennzoil ,quackerstate, or castrol or compared brands, to such as mobil 1 ,valvoline (especially full synthetic) or compared brands. An here's what im finding goes definitely wrong!
Let's pick on pennzoil as it has been my worst results ... if its changed within 3,000 miles or 3months its not likely to have buildup. However, if you go beyond that it will create a significant amount of sludge waiting for disaster to strike. This can actually happen on many brands (including the best) but, it occurs at different timing. So what ends up happening is not the oil so much causing an issue its timing that eats your lunch. Why? Because, poor detergent allowed buildup creating a significant amount of sludge . Once you converted to a better quality oil the 1st thing it attacks is sludge, an when it does it will have a tendency to break off chunks rather then dissolve it because it has a significantly better detergent value. This will cause these chunks to be carried on down the oil ports to oil much needed wear parts and ultimately plug the port rather then l**e it. If this existing oil cannot pass this plug it drastically slows down the dissolving process thus drying out a much needed bearing l**e an destroying the engine.

So what should be done...? Well you can do a few things... (1) you can leave it like ya found it an continue with what has been done an hope it doesn't naturally cause the same problem. (2) flush it! To do this properly you'll need to drain the existing oil 1st an change your filter then refill a quart shy of full an the balance use something like sea foam motor treatment for the difference. Pour it all in with a new filter on an start an IDLE ONLY for at least 30 minutes. When the time is up dump that oil an change your filter again. NOW ITS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT if your engine is really clogged to run the oil you've been using in it again but, this time only run 500 miles before dumping your oil again an repeat the treatment again until you are confident the sludge is definitely gone! Then run the oil an filter you wanted to upgrade to. Doing this has increased fuel economy atleast 3mpg on the best test and most of the time its about 1.5 mpg.

Well im trying to keep from boring you so I'm gonna stop this one an come again with step #2 an post #3. So thanks for reading an hope to hear from you!

An until next time hope y'all enjoyed this read an watch for the next one!

07/03/2020

Sometimes it seems like the odds are against me ,but I keep on pushing on ... why? Because when ya fight tooth an nail for parts (and right parts mind ya) an a repair that took 5 months to complete.... it's the day the owner gets on it an is grinning ear to ear taking off wide open that makes all the difference. Maybe not exactly the outcome I was wishing for but definitely the final product! I don't do this work to turn bolts... I do it to make a difference! (An turn a few heads on the way...🤠)

If ya wonder what service is like check my list of people who follow me and ask the ones I've done work for ... they'll probably tell ya don't bother cuz I've got to get theirs done an I'm behind! Lol

Hope ya'll have a great independence day!

06/16/2020

I like what I'm seeing! Complete overhaul on a 4600 Ford. Consists of new cam, new PTO output shaft, new rings an pistons, bearings, water pump, valves, well I guess we just about are doing it all! Only this one was a curve ball! Had a few things I've never seen but we learn to do it right!