Helms racing and performance engines

Helms racing and performance engines racing, prefomance, and vintage parts for sale

A little before and after shot on the hilborn injector. Still got a little work to do installing the new barrel valve fr...
11/21/2019

A little before and after shot on the hilborn injector. Still got a little work to do installing the new barrel valve from a diffrent model injector and new lines and linkage.

Working on some hilborn injection stuff.
11/19/2019

Working on some hilborn injection stuff.

Early Small block chevy cylinder heads identification and aplication. Over the years GM has made hundreds of different c...
10/21/2019

Early Small block chevy cylinder heads identification and aplication. Over the years GM has made hundreds of different cylinder heads with different casting marks and valve sizes, combustion chabers and poerts for a small block some good some bad, I'm just going to focase on the earlyheads from the first 20 years or so of production.
When Chevrolet released the mighty mouse 265ci in 1955 they had some economy size heads most of the first engines never made more than 200hp. Right around 56 or 57 they released the 283ci version with optional power pack heads casting mark shown in picture #3. The power pack engine options also included dual 4bbl intake and a power pack camshaft originally designed by ed iskiderian, was the first factory engine to produce more than 1hp per cubic inch. The power pack heads stuck around until 1967. Almost all had 64cc combustion chambers and 1.74" int valve and 1.50" exaust valve, the port caricteristics where small and restictive similar to the later ford small block heads that always proved to restrict power.
Jump ahead to 1962 GM finally releases the turbofire 327ci as the new high performance engine along with it a new set of heads the infamous "camel humps", shown as picture #1. The camel hump was a feat in prefomance 64cc combustion chamber and either a 1.94" intake and 1.50" exaust or the moster 2.02" intake and 1.60" exaust that became famous. The "double hump" or "camel hump" heads where designed from the factory with racing in mind. The ports we larger than any other at the time and flowed better than most ported earlier heads producing at its peak 375hp according to the factory on a fuel injected corvette 327, the factory rating where actually under marked for insurance reasons they actually produced more like 400hp. The heads where designed for the new 4inch bore of the 327 but when installed on a 283 the 2 inch valve caused flow problem on the 3.875 bore where the valve was shielded by the cylinder wall. As ive found from personal experience the optimum head for a 283 is a 1.94 intake valve but going over .500 lift is risky otherwise you can cause flow problems.
By 1968 GM had ditched the small jornal forged crank engines and the famous camel humps allong with it. As the rise of a Camaro and other muscle cars hit its peak they needed a head to match the horsepower damands. The new set of heads was a variation of the camel humps, seen in picture #2 the 1968 and 69 heads with the accessory holes, they came with 64cc and 62cc combustion chabers and 1.94 intake 1.50 exaust valves, smaller than the earlier heads but these heads have better port caricteristics and larger exaust ports than the earlier camel humps and also came with hardend valve seats, but the smaller vlaves are normally a killer for pepole when buying heads, the diffrence isnt much but in my opinion they are the optimum head for a 283 because of flow and valve sizing.
In general factory iorn chevy cylinder heads can keep up with some aluminum aftermarket heads sutch as the rare angle plug heads that where built and sold for racing only. But if you know what your liking at you can find a head that is cheap as a stock head that will flow as good as a aftermarket head. Ive always been a fan of building the smaller lesser built engines like the 283, so far ive acheved 450hp at 8500rpm out of a 1967 283cid on gas, with a stock but ballenced bottom end and all vintage period correct parts, I'm looking to make 475 and 9000+ with just a intake manifold change from a torquer 1 manifold to a long runner yunick ram manifold. Its quite a jump but the intake runners where to short and the cam and block have a lot more rpm and power left in it. So don't be discouraged by smaller vintage engines.

Identification of a factory forged small block chevy crank. So if your ever looking to build a race engine you want a fo...
10/19/2019

Identification of a factory forged small block chevy crank. So if your ever looking to build a race engine you want a forged crankshaft, excluding aftermarket cranks this is a short guide to find a factory forged chevy crank.
Most people know the trick in the picture the wide casting line is a forged crank and the thin one is cast. Most people end up buying a engine where the seller dosent want the oil pan removed so there are a few ways to find if it's has a forged crank.
A little history, prior to 1968 all chevy crankshafts where forged due to poor casting quality for crankshafts. By so in 90% of cases a pre 1968 sbc will have a forged crank unless it was a industrial motor in some cases.
How to identify a pre 1968 sbc is pretty simple 1955-67 all had a snorkel puke tube hole in the back of the block and the passenger side block deck has a wider stamping plate area than later engines where a partial vin is usually stamped and sometimes can be traced. You can also tell by the cylinder heads if the engine is original, 1955-67 have no accessory bolt holes on the front or back faces of the heads.
The crank sizes all 55-67 cranks are small jornal and 2 bolt main,1955-67 265cid 283cid and 302cid are all the same with a 3inch stroke, 1962-67 327cid has a 3.25 stroke, and finally 1967 only 350cid has 3.48 stroke. Small jornal 327, 302 and 350 blocks are the same bore size and jornal size so the cranks are interchagable without any sizing problem.
Even with this info you can never guarantee what is inside, its common to find a block that the nubers say its a 327 that somebody put a 283 or 350 crank in it especially with later large jornal cast cranks. I often see people read the casting nubers that say its a 327 and it's actually a 350 because the castings are all the same, the only acurate number is the partial vin on the front passenger siede of the block.
Aa far as strength goes with early forged cranks I have found them to be as good as if not better than aftermarket cranks. The steel quality after ww2 was as good as I've seen and most sbc factory cranks are more consistant than new ones. If you look back to 1960s drag racing they where pushing upward of 2,000hp out of a factory chevy block and crank on large amounts of nitro in top fuel. As far as street aplications go ive seen more 4blolt blocks fail than 2 bolt blocks Somthing that can always be fixed with a girdle or splayed caps. Factory 55-67 connecting rods are I-beam forged steel and not wimpy capable of handling over 500hp on unblown aplications. The only word of warning I have is regarding to 301s not a factory engine its a bored out 283 common practice before the 327. A 301 is bored from 3.875 to 4inch and the possibly of blowing through the cylinder wall is common, so try to trace the block numbers or have it sonic tested if your not sure if its a destroked 327 or a factory dz302.

Some things to keep in mind if your planning on building a pre 1968 small block witch in my opinion is a better way to go the small jornal allows for higher rpm to be acheeved and the cranks are cheap strong and available and perfect for a period correct build.

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