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Basic Leather Cleaning & Care
1. Clean
2. Hydrated
3. Protected
Finished Leather
Correct information regarding the care of leather is scarce, often contradictory, misleading, or simply wrong. Misinformation can lead to inadvertent damage to your vehicles leather upholstery; my goal is to present clear, concise, accurate information.
There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who recommend the same products and techniques be used regardless of the leathers finish or use baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, Furniture, Motorcycle, Equestrian and Automobile leather are all different type of leather finishes and require different care.
You do need to understand some of the basic chemistry behind the tanning and finishes applied to automotive leather to understand how to renovate, clean or care for it.
All of which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Using the correct product is important in order to protect your car’s interior. If you keep your cars’ interior clean, you can easily save your car for a good couple of years and it can stay in a ‘like-new’ condition, and maintain a better re-sale value.
Cleanliness is one of the major things buyers look for when purchasing a vehicle. There are several finished leather upholstery cleaners available, which need to be used in accordance to the type of finished leather used in for your vehicles upholstery.
That is why it is imperative, that if you are concerned about the results you wish to achieve, you must perform a bit of research into finding the products suitable for your requirements.
After various meetings and discussions with leather tanners, their research and development teams, chemists and fat liquoring formulators and many leather care product manufacturers I’ve gained an understanding of this versatile material on both a practical and scientific level.
It had always confounded me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather not with the leather hide itself
The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above
Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased urethane finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish
Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.
Finished leather doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Leather Care
There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo-scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, commercially unbiased answer.
Having devoted many hours to this particular material and spending a lot of time with both leather tanners and their formulating chemists I have gained some insight and it amazes me that such a simple subject has been made into something so complicated.
Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself. The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above
Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased a urethane finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish
Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Premium leather has a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.
Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of Micro pigment finished leather. Always pre-test the product on a hidden area. Shake the foam container thoroughly. Spray the product at a distance of 12 inches from the leather to one section at a time, and allow product to remain in place for approximately 15 to 30 seconds.
Leather Conditioning
Conditioning is a moot point as the hide is sealed once fat liquoring has been added at the tannery. Leather is the hide removed from a deceased animal and the tanning / curing processes used seal in the necessary oils during the fat liquoring stage, thereby ensuring that the fibres cannot nor, do they need to be fed. Although many leather products market themselves on how they feed or condition leather.
When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. As these are typically fully reacted to the fibre structure and as a consequence only minimal amounts will migrate. Because of this low migration continually adding anything to replace lost oils is no longer necessary
There are numerous leather conditioning products in the marketplace, and they generally have the same overall function: to preserve the aesthetics of leather. However this can be better accomplished by replacing moisture (hydration) lost through evaporation.
There is no correlation between the cosmetics used for skin care and how we look after finished leather upholstery, Proteins, Collagen, Lanolin, Oils and Aloe are used for human skin reconstruction and nutrition, finished leather is not like human skin, its dead and cannot be regenerated or revived.
[Finished leather is a very chemically complex material, and if the conditioning product is incompatible it can have a damaging effect; peeling and / or cracking of the finish, colour transfer ("crocking"), yellowing, and general degradation are some of the problems that can be caused by the application of an improperly formulated, incompatible leather treatment product]
Leather Research Laboratory
1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear
Remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams periodically is important as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum and then use a foam cleaner, one section at a time, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel
The advantage of foam over liquid is the minimum amount of moisture, very important for cleaning absorbent and moisture sensitive leathers.
Use foam cleaner, which should be given dwell time and then gentle agitation with a medium stiff bristled brush to get the product into the materials surface, the low moisture content of foam can then be easily rinsed and the surface dried. Remove excess product and debris with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel. If the foam is allowed to dry the soil will be re-deposited to the surface. Check the results and repeat process as necessary
For heavily soiled areas use a foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush) especially on light coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer, stains, etc.)
Alternative product: Optimum Protectant Plus (Leather Protectant) – a versatile product that cleans and protects and also provides ultra violet (UV) protection, can be used on vinyl, rubber, leather, and plastic. Spray mist the Protectant Plus on a microfiber towel and wipe the desired surfaces
For extremely soiled finished leather
Pre-cleaning preparation - remove surface dirt and dust, cleaning the seams as dirt / grit will abrade the stitching causing them to fail, prise them apart, then use a soft brush, vacuum, and then finally wipe off with a clean, damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel
a) Foam cleaning - use a suitable foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) that contains a surfactant that will lift dirt and soil, allow react time to do its work and then use a soft brush to agitate and loosen the dirt (Swissvax Leather Brush) especially on light coloured leathers; this enables the cleaning of the micro pores and creases and lifts the dirt out and reveal any further work that needs doing (dye transfer, stains, etc.)
b) Machine cleaning - use a Groit’s 3- inch (speed # 4-5) machine polisher, and a Grey Ultra Soft Upholstery Brush (Autogeek), each bristle is split in to multiple fine tips, designed for your most delicate carpet and lather or fabric upholstery interiors and a suitable leather cleaner. This brush can also be used with other orbital polisher’s ( Porter Cable 7424, Flex Orbital Polisher or a Groit’s Random Orbital Polishers (3 inch and 6 inch) as well as the Cyclo ) The brush has a connector which screw directly into listed orbital polishers.
Use with 1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner (Plastik Reiniger) an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for that removes build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore the original texture, tactile feel and resiliency or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner, using very little applied pressure
c) Spa method cleaning- by using a heated towel it will open up the micro pours of the leather, allowing the towel to remove the ingrained dirt (this method is also very effective on perforated leather)
Take a few very damp terry weave towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave. Using gloves wring out the towels just so they don't drip place them on the leather surface and allow to dwell for a short period. Take a couple of very damp terry weave towels, place them in a bowl and heat them in a microwave.
Use gloves while handling them, place them on the leather surface and allow to dwell for a short period. Remove the towel and then use a leather cleaner, buff the surface similar to the action used when removing wax (1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner)
d) Steam cleaning method – use a suitable leather cleaner (1z einszett Vinyl Deep Cleaner or Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner). You should limit the amount of water vapour by using the low-output setting and by avoiding concentrating on one spot for too long. Place a clean micro fibre towelover the surface and apply the steam directly over the towel. This contains the heat within the fabric and catches excess water in the process, replace the towel as required.
Once the area has been cleaned a wipe over with a clean dry micro fibre towel to remove any grime that has not attached to the wet micro fibre towel and aid in eliminating any excess moisture. You can vary the temperature and vapour moisture being introduce by moving the nozzle nearer or further away from the surface being cleaned
Notes:
a) A terry weave towel has slight abrasive ability, which provides superior agitation compared to microfiber and may be useful when cleaning heavily soiled surfaces
b) The melamine open-cell foam Magic Eraser is micro-porous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper. If the surface being cleaned is not sufficiently hard, it may be finely scratched by the melamine material. They work by removing or 'sanding' a very fine amount from the surface that is being cleaned - great for wood and hard surfaces but very detrimental to the fine surface finish on leather
2. Hydrated – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
Moisture balance is a sine qua non (an indispensable and essential action) in leather care. Leather naturally absorbs and retains moisture vapour, meaning it’s also susceptible to losing the moisture necessary to keep it pliant and soft. One of major attribute is its ability for transpiration (allowing the movement of moisture back and forth; transpiration (evaporation and hydration), which it does even better than wool.
Repetitive heat cycling causes the leather to lose moisture, resulting in the formation of creasing or surface cracks, which may lead to the leather contracting; however the urethane remains stable, which may lead to it delaminating.
A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent.
3. Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers pe*****te the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable, allowing transpiration and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer
3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) protection against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and dashboards
Is water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles. It doesn’t contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents)
It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.
Note: this product does NOT air dry. Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability
3b. Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch and allow to dry for approx. 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces
Maintenance:
Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc. especially during the summer months, would not be out of line
Note: Both Lexol and Saddle Soap are formulated for Equestrian tack, which is an entirely different type of leather than the finished leather used for automobiles
I hope this article has helped you to understand that little bit more leather upholstery and how to clean and care for it correctly
Relevant Articles
1. “Leather Articles Hyperlinks”
2. “Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care”
Bibliography
1. Leather Technician's Handbook by J.H. Sharphouse
2. Practical Leather Technology by T.C. Thorstensen.
3. Books on Leather - http://www.shoetrades.com/dev/leather.php
4. How to keep Luxurious Connolly Leather Young and Supple. Krysti Pavlisko 1998
5. How to Restore Auto Leather. D Briggs 2001
Information resource
1. Wikipedia Encyclopaedia
2. American Leather Chemists Association, various technical papers / articles
3. Leather Care Facts. Leatherique 2003 - http://www.leatherique.com/
4. The Leather Institute (Townsend Leather Group) http://www.leatherinstitute.com/
5. Article in the Leather Training & Technical Dept Ltd website -
6. IICRC Reference Guide for Professional Upholstery Cleaning (IICRC S300)
7. Upholstery cleaning is based upon methods recommended by the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaning Institute (CUCI)
8. The Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)
9. Leather Research Laboratory , University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati OH
10. Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLTC) various technical papers / articles
11. Leather Master™ - http://www.leathermasteruk.com/
12. Leather Magic™ - http://leathermagicpro.com/index.html
13. Global Care Solutions, LLC , 354 Hiatt Dr, Palm Beach Gardens, FL, 33418 - 1-800-292-3777
14. BLC Leather Descriptions and Definitions -http://www.btaa.org.uk/files/Leatherdef.pdf
Copyright © 2012 TOGWT® (Established 1980) all rights reserved
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