08/11/2026
This is going to stir up a lot of controversy but it is 100% fact. The great spark plug anti-seize debate. The plug on the left has way too much anti-seize on it and the copper-type is the wrong anti-seize in my eyes, since it just melts away as shown. Too much and putting it too low on the plug threads can foul out the new spark plug, causing a misinterpretation that that spark plug brand is junk. This is exactly why manufactures now use a plating on the threads to negate the need for anti-seize and therefore reduces the chance of installation issues, leading to a bad rep for these companies. The middle one is the real world outcome when no anti-seize is used. The plugs came out, but boy did the creak and bind coming out. The far right plug is a new plated plug with literally just a hint of anti-seize on the threads that will spread evenly when threaded into the the head. This light anti-seize application method works together with the plating to ensure easy spark removal 80-100k miles later. This method also ensures there is no chance of fouling the new plug and requires no torque reduction to accommodate for the anti-seize. Anyone who says a torque reduction is needed for this small dab is just book smart and has zero practical experience. Any mechanic worth his salt would tell you the same. Follow my advice on anti-seize, use Motorcraft plugs (made by NGK), don’t side load the plug upon install and torque to factory spec and you will never have an issue. 20 years of following this method and zero comebacks….. Ford Motor Company
