County Line Repair

04/05/2026

County Line Repair wishes you a Happy Easter full of good vibes, good food, and no breakdowns!🐰🐣

03/07/2026

This OBS Chevy showed up mostly in pieces — basically a long block with buckets of parts in the bed and cab. After a lot of fabrication, wiring, troubleshooting, and tuning, it’s now a fully sorted Holley Sniper EFI truck that drives better than factory.

I took on this job initially as kind of a favor for a friend, with the understanding that it would be something I worked on when I had time. I severely underestimated the scope of the project, but man it turned out slick.

The truck arrived mostly disassembled with the camshaft, valve springs, and intake already installed. It had a mild Summit 8800 camshaft (204/214 @ .050, .450 lift), upgraded valve springs, and a Weiand Street Warrior intake.

The customer had purchased a full Holley Sniper EFI system — throttle body, Hyperspark distributor, coil, transmission controller, etc. I started off installing the distributor and recommended a set of 1.5:1 self-aligning billet aluminum roller rockers. While going through everything I found some issues related to the timing cover from the cam install, so I put the truck on the lift, corrected that, and installed a new oil pan gasket.

While it was on the lift I also installed the new manifold-to-muffler fl**ge exhaust that came with the kit and began running wiring for the transmission controller. The transmission had recently been rebuilt, and when I went to plug the pass-through connector in the transmission side connector popped into the pan. After pulling the pan I found the connector had been siliconed in because the plastic retaining clips were broken. I sourced another harness, pulled the valve body components, and corrected the issue.

From there I removed most of the components from the firewall and fender so I could properly mount all of the Holley controllers. Everything was laid out, holes drilled, and riv-nuts installed so everything bolted in cleanly. We removed all of the unused circuits from the factory harness and integrated the Holley wiring so it looks like a clean OEM-style harness.

The Sniper system requires 55–60 psi of fuel pressure, which the factory pump conveniently provides. I used push-lock to AN adapters to utilize the factory steel fuel lines and built AN hoses to plumb the throttle body. Because the Sniper requires a regulated return system, I fabricated a bracket and installed an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with a liquid-filled gauge to dampen pressure pulses.

The customer wanted all factory functions retained, including the A/C. Taller valve covers are required to clear the roller rockers, which caused clearance issues with the compressor. I ended up notching the accessory bracket and machining spacers on the lathe to raise the compressor and run a longer serpentine belt.

Several circuits in the factory harness had to be extended so everything would fit properly with the new components. The Holley system gets its RPM signal from the distributor, but the factory ECU still needs the signal from the crank sensor in the timing cover for certain functions. The factory tachometer also requires a separate signal, so I tied the Sniper tach output into the factory tach wire. The Holley also has a speedometer output, but using that disables factory systems like ABS and cruise control, so those circuits were retained and tied together at the vehicle speed sensor.

The throttle bracket ended up being a modified piece from an ’80s squarebody parts truck. I also used the throttle cable from the squarebody since the pedal connection and firewall pass-through are very similar. Because the Sniper throttle body is shaped like a carburetor, the squarebody cable worked perfectly.

I also ended up installing a new starter and building new cables after discovering the original cable had melted. Once that was corrected the engine fired right up.

For the intake I had Eric Bates cut some pieces on the plasma table so I could build a custom heat shield and airbox. I welded everything together, painted it black, and mounted the radiator overflow on the back side. Had to add a little Texas pride to it.
After getting everything running it was time to dial in the tuning. The Sniper system provides base parameters to get the engine running, but it still required a lot of dialing in. Timing sync, IAC setup, idle spark, and transmission shift scaling all needed adjustment to get everything working exactly the way it should.

After several rounds of testing and road tuning I finally have everything dialed in and it is an absolute blast to drive. The A/C is blowing 39 degrees, every factory function works exactly like it should, and the engine bay came out clean.

I’m extremely proud of how this one turned out after a lot of time and detail work. I have a couple small tweaks to finish over the weekend and it will be heading back to a very happy customer.

On to the next one.

01/02/2026

Finally finished up the interior on this 84 K30 build.

What a boatload of work.

There’s still a couple small pieces that need replaced (visors/misc plastic trim parts) but the majority of it is completed and I am really happy with how it turned out.

All of the power functions on the passenger and driver seats work like factory. I am 6’ tall, and the driver seat will slide back far enough my feet wont touch the pedals and reclines nearly flat. I had to strip the driver seat down to the frame to figure out how to disable airbags and wire up the control board. The passenger seat was easy after that.

The backseat was a nightmare. I wound up sectioning and heavily modifying the factory bench seat frame (twice) before i was happy with how it fit. I probably pulled it out and reinstalled it 10 times. The factory rear bench is essentially two wedge shapes while the late model seats are flat, so trying to get the angles right and keep it comfortable was tricky.

The new vinyl flooring was supposedly “pre formed” for this pickup, but did not fit at all. Lots and lots of trimming and stretching. I had to remove the 4wd linkage out of the transfer case and machine a new bushing on the lathe to get it all functioning correctly and polished it while it was apart.

The original sub/amplifier combo we were going to use didn’t fit in a way that we were happy with, so I added this 8” powered sub by retro sounds that I had bought and never used for one of my other projects. It’s not going to crack windshields, but it adds some good bass to the system and bumps surprisingly hard for what it is. I built two speaker brackets for the 6x9” kickers in the cab corners and installed two 3.5” kickers in the dash and one Memphis speaker in the center speaker location on the dash. The kickers are driven by a ds18 amp. The kenwood head unit doesnt have dedicated subwoofer outputs so I had to use a line output converter to run the amps. The wiring is tied up and labeled on the amp board if someone wants to install a dedicated different sub/amp combo later on.

All of the aluminum trim pieces got polished on the polishing wheel and despite being pretty heavily corroded they cleaned up well.

All the pieces/brackets etc added were installed with Rivnuts, so everything bolts down without having to hold a nut on the other side.

The entire cab is covered in FatMat heat and sound insulation, which significantly reduces resonance, improves overall cabin noise, and will really help keep it cool in the summer. It also makes the truck feel substantially more solid overall.

All in all I’m really happy with it and glad to have it wrapped up. Onto the next one.

11/19/2025

This 2017 Nissan Titan XD arrived a couple weeks ago after getting an engine installed at another shop. After the installation it was running poorly and sat there for awhile because they couldn’t figure it out. Customer finally picked it up and brought it to us.

When it arrived it had dozens of codes, every light on the dash was on, it wouldn’t shift out of 3rd gear, had zero throttle pedal, and a whole smorgasbord of other issues.

We went round and round testing the harness and trying to figure out why the crank signal was intermittently dropping. Normally a mechanical failure gives a consistent pattern on the oscilloscope. What we had was an inconsistent, crazy-looking waveform. I ohmed the harness all the way back to the ECM, verified grounds, checked 5V reference, signal voltage that moved with RPM like it should, and swapped in an OEM sensor because it had a knockoff in it.

The readings pointed to a sensor issue… but frustratingly, that wasn’t it. Everything electrical checked out. And even though the waveform didn’t look like a classic mechanical failure, at that point there wasn’t much left to check.

Pulled the inspection plate, ran a borescope up there, and barred the engine over to inspect the reluctor wheel.

Found the problem—two teeth were damaged during the engine install.
One tooth was snapped off completely, and another was bent and cracked. The bent one was the culprit behind the wild signal. It was still putting off a weak, inconsistent reading, which is why it didn’t show up as a clean mechanical failure on the scope.

Unfortunately the motor or transmission has to come back out to repair it, but I was incredibly grateful to finally find the problem. Electrical diagnostic work is time-consuming and tedious, but in the modern world of electronics you absolutely have to understand how these systems are supposed to work.

Also- shout out to this little $30 Amazon oscilloscope. Loads of functions, easy to use, super compact. Great deal for the price if you’re looking for one.

11/18/2025

We are also a vendor for Continental Batteries. Standard 2 year warranty in stock, 3 year premium available. Shoot us a message for pricing and availability. If it’s not in stock we can usually have them within a couple days.

11/14/2025

11/14/2025

Lots of antiques coming through the shop lately. We just wrapped up this Farmall M for a customer in Briggs, TX. The tractor came in with fuel issues, electrical problems, and a no-start condition after a recent magneto replacement.

We went through the entire fuel system, adjusted the brakes, repaired most of the wiring, fixed the non-charging alternator, and even brought the 80-year-old headlights back to life. After a closer look at the magneto install, the rotor was 180° out. Once we reset the timing and corrected the firing order, the old Farmall lit right off like it should.

We completed a full service, pulled out an oil filter that had been in there for 60 years, serviced the transmission—which was completely dry but thankfully undamaged—and replaced fluids, filters, battery cables, and handled a long list of small repairs. After a deep cleaning and final inspection, this tractor is ready to work another 80 years.

Farmalls have a special place for me. Back in 2008, a couple friends and I rebuilt a ’47 Farmall M for our Ag Mechanics team. We took first at county and made it to state in San Antonio—where we got humbled pretty quick by schools with much bigger Ag budgets than Lampasas. 😂 Still one of my favorite memories, and nothing beats hearing one of these old tractors purr down the road.

Always appreciate the chance to bring a piece of history back to life.

— County Line Repair

10/30/2025

Rolling along on this 1984 GMC K30 build.

Completely stripped the interior, pressure washed and cleaned it, repaired and resealed all the minor surface rust on the pillars and floor panels and covered the entire interior in Fatmat heat and sound insulation. Have used this in all of my personal vehicles and it is amazing stuff, especially in the middle of those Texas summers.

Built an Amp board to mount both amps to the back wall behind the seat and installed Kickers CS series speakers, all running off the DS18 4 channel amp and Kenwood head unit. Fabricated the brackets to put the 6x9”s in the rear cab corners and installed the 3.5” speakers in the factory dash location after painting the factory brackets. The 2 10” treo subwoofers in proboxes are being ran off an older Alpine MRV-1507, customer had this setup laying around and I test wired everything to make sure it all worked correctly prior to install.

The front seats are out of a late model Chevrolet and are getting wired for all of the power/heated seat functions to work like factory. Getting the brackets built for these hasn’t been too tricky and they actually fit pretty similarly to the original captain seat setup it came with.

The back seats are another story. There was no way they were going to fit with the late model mounts so wound up pulling the frame out of the original bench seat to bolt all late model seat bottoms on. They are actually narrower than the factory bench, so I’m having to cut and narrow the frame, but it will bolt up to all of the original mounting positions. Had to strip everything off the late model seats to get down to the metal frame and adapt them to the bench seat frame.

Polishing all the aluminum trim pieces and updating all the interior panels with new black panels. The brown leather inserts on the seats match the new headliner.

A ton of fab work and time but it is going to look and sound amazing when it’s finished.

10/08/2025

Got this 1951 Ford Custom dialed in perfectly and ready to go back to its owner. Got rid of the troublesome points ignition system and installed an HEI conversion with a modern MSD Blaster 2 coil and opened up the plug gaps to .040. Re-did a bunch of the fuel system and installed a new Holley fuel pressure regulator, repaired the A/C system, re worked a ton of the wiring harness, and fixed the blown out exhaust. Dialed in the timing and mixture with an old Fuel-o-vac vacuum gauge from the 60’s. 19inhg vacuum at warm idle and a dead steady needle. It’s running better than the day it came off the factory floor. Looking forward to seeing this thing cruising around town.

09/30/2025

Speaking of classics, got this original 1984 K30 in for a modern leather seat conversion, new interior, and sound system. Stay tuned!

09/30/2025

Most of the time it’s diesels and heavy equipment, but if you know me personally you know my heart is with the classics. Always enjoy getting them running right again. Have this ‘51 purring in no time.