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RJ Wiggins MotoSport Grassroots Formula Racing Starts Here. Restore • Race • Preserve

Building a modern Formula Ford program focused on authentic open-wheel racing, driver development, vintage motorsport preservation, and the culture that keeps grassroots racing alive.

Possibly the Last Brand-New Formula Mazda on the Planet! 🏁Spent the day with Bruce Lawrence of The Speed Connection, tal...
10/17/2026

Possibly the Last Brand-New Formula Mazda on the Planet! 🏁

Spent the day with Bruce Lawrence of The Speed Connection, talking racing, engines, fabrication, chassis development, and decades of open-wheel racing history.

While Formula Mazda and Formula Ford have their differences, they share many of the same engineering principles, and we’re especially excited to have Bruce’s decades of experience and expertise helping us develop and maintain our Formula Fords at RJ Wiggins MotoSport!

One of the highlights was getting an up-close look at something truly special — Bruce’s brand-new, never-raced original Formula Mazda, possibly the last of its kind anywhere in the world!

For those unfamiliar with Formula Mazda, there’s some fascinating American racing history behind these machines.

The original Formula Mazda debuted in the 1980s and became part of the Star Mazda racing program, which helped develop aspiring drivers pursuing careers in professional open-wheel racing.

The idea was simple: put talented drivers in nearly identical race cars and let driving ability, mechanical preparation, and racecraft determine who came out on top.

These were serious little race cars! Powered by Mazda’s 13B rotary engine, producing approximately 170–180 horsepower, they featured five-speed racing transmissions, lightweight steel space-frame chassis, and speeds approaching 140 mph.

Unlike traditional Formula Fords, these cars also incorporated aerodynamic wings that generated downforce, helping push the tires into the pavement as speeds increased. That added another dimension to driving and car setup, particularly through high-speed corners.

And here’s what makes Bruce’s car particularly remarkable.

Bruce personally fabricated the entire steel space-frame chassis from engineering drawings, building it from the ground up using precision-cut and welded steel tubing. He didn’t simply restore an old race car or assemble a purchased chassis. He built the chassis himself!

Even more remarkable, this particular car has never been raced.

Bruce also took the time to get me into the cockpit and evaluate my fit in the car. Sitting behind the wheel gave me an entirely different appreciation for just how compact and purpose-built these machines are.

We also spent time with one of Bruce’s longtime racing friends, discussing fabrication, engines, dyno testing, and plenty of racing history.

It’s amazing how much racing knowledge, engineering experience, and craftsmanship can be found in one workshop.

RJ Wiggins MotoSport and The Speed Connection have some exciting things in the works, and we’re looking forward to sharing more soon!

Yesterday’s formula, tomorrow’s drivers.

Formula Ford Weber Carburetors — Let’s Talk Modifications!We’re getting our Lola T540 prepped and ready for next season,...
10/17/2026

Formula Ford Weber Carburetors — Let’s Talk Modifications!

We’re getting our Lola T540 prepped and ready for next season, and since we’ve got to go through the engine anyway (the front main seal isn’t exactly happy!), we’re taking the opportunity to look at a few other things while we’re at it.

We feel like we’ve got a pretty good handle on the ignition system, and we’ve also got a clear direction on the Tilton clutch. Now we’re turning our attention to the carburetor.

We’ve had some outstanding responses to our previous technical discussions, so I thought we’d tap into the collective knowledge of the Formula Ford community once again.

As far as I can determine, the two traditional carburetor options are the Weber 32/36 DGV and the Holley 5200. The Holley appears to be out of regular production, making the availability of brand-new Weber carburetors particularly attractive.

We’ve been looking at the Ivey Engines-prepared Weber 32/36 DGV sold through Pegasus Auto Racing as a benchmark.

According to Pegasus, the Ivey-prepared carburetor includes:

* Choke mechanism removed.
* Factory power valve removed.
* Dump tubes installed for fuel enrichment.
* Fuel inlet tapped for a 1/8-inch NPT fitting with a 5/16-inch hose barb.
* Additional preparation and tuning that aren’t specifically detailed in the listing.

Now here’s where we’d really appreciate some input from the experienced Formula Ford engine builders, mechanics, and racers.

What else should we be looking at?

* Dump-tube design, placement, and orientation?
* Emulsion-tube modifications or alternative configurations?
* Main jets and air-correction jets?
* Auxiliary venturi modifications?
* Float levels and fuel control during hard cornering?
* Accelerator-pump calibration and throttle response?
* Progressive versus simultaneous throttle operation?
* Cylinder-to-cylinder fuel distribution?
* Other modifications that have produced measurable improvements?

We’re not necessarily looking to duplicate an existing commercially prepared carburetor. We’re interested in understanding whether there’s still room to improve horsepower, throttle response, fuel distribution, or consistency while staying within Formula Ford regulations.

For those of you who’ve spent years developing these carburetors, what modifications have actually made a measurable difference?

And just as importantly, what have you tried that turned out to be a complete waste of time?

We’re especially interested in firsthand experience, dyno comparisons, and some of those old-school techniques that might have been forgotten over the years.

Looking forward to hearing everyone’s thoughts!

🏁🏎️ FORMULA FORD IS HEADED TO SKY SPORTS F1 — AND WE CAN WATCH IT HERE IN THE USA! 🇺🇸🇬🇧Now THIS is exciting news for the...
10/16/2026

🏁🏎️ FORMULA FORD IS HEADED TO SKY SPORTS F1 — AND WE CAN WATCH IT HERE IN THE USA! 🇺🇸🇬🇧

Now THIS is exciting news for the Formula Ford community!

The British Racing & Sports Car Club has officially announced that the 2026 Formula Ford Festival at Brands Hatch will be broadcast LIVE on Sky Sports F1!

And here’s the best part: The entire weekend of racing will also be livestreamed on the BRSCC YouTube channel!

📅 October 24–25, 2026
📍 Brands Hatch Indy Circuit, England

📺 HOW TO WATCH:

🇺🇸 USA & International Viewers: Head to the official BRSCC YouTube channel. All weekend racing is scheduled to be streamed there.

👉 https://youtube.com/?si=c0xvcr8DtpPoVDNz

🇬🇧 UK Viewers: Sky Sports F1 will broadcast Sunday’s action beginning with the semi-finals and continuing through the finals.

This is the 55th running of the legendary Formula Ford Festival, an event with a history that includes drivers such as Jenson Button, Mark Webber, Johnny Herbert, and Eddie Irvine.

For those of us working to introduce new generations of drivers to Formula Ford, seeing this level of television exposure is a HUGE deal!

These little race cars have been developing real racing talent for decades, and it’s fantastic to see them getting some well-deserved attention.

Share this with your racing friends, especially the ones who have never heard of Formula Ford!

We’ll be watching from North Carolina! 🏁

Official announcement:
https://brscc.co.uk/brscc-announces-landmark-formula-ford-festival-coverage-on-sky-sports-f1-tv-channel/

RJ Wiggins MotoSport
Yesterday’s Formula, Tomorrow’s Drivers.



https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1514459920710332&id=100064390163715

The British Racing & Sports Car Club (BRSCC) is delighted to announce that the 2026 Formula Ford Festival will be shown live on Sky Sports F1 TV Channel and BRSCC YouTube, bringing one of British motorsport’s most celebrated events to a wider audience through a first-of-its-kind broadcast agreement for the Festival.

Read more: https://brscc.co.uk/brscc-announces-landmark-formula-ford-festival-coverage-on-sky-sports-f1-tv-channel/

🏁 THE DOGBOX DEBATE — What the Racers Say vs. What Hewland Says!When we started digging into the proper way to shift a H...
10/15/2026

🏁 THE DOGBOX DEBATE — What the Racers Say vs. What Hewland Says!

When we started digging into the proper way to shift a Hewland racing gearbox, we had no idea how much great conversation it would generate!

Experienced Formula Ford racers shared everything from clutchless shifting techniques to gearbox failures, racing school experiences, and the importance of proper mechanical setup.

One thing became clear: there’s more than one opinion on how to shift these transmissions!

Then William Hewland himself joined the conversation and shared his July 2000 technical guidelines on gear-changing techniques and dog-face wear.

That gave us an interesting opportunity: compare decades of firsthand racing experience against Hewland’s own written recommendations.

So we put together this colorful little document, The Dogbox Debate, highlighting the different perspectives, where they agree, and what we can learn from them.

For us at RJ Wiggins MotoSport, this is about more than preserving expensive gearboxes. We’re developing a Formula Ford driver training program, and understanding these fundamentals before putting newcomers on the racetrack is a big part of that mission.

📖 Check out the attached PDF!

A huge thanks to everyone who contributed their knowledge and experiences. This is exactly what makes the vintage racing community so valuable.

I Thought I Understood How to Shift Gears. Then I Learned About Dog Boxes.Racers, mechanics, and gearbox experts—I want ...
10/14/2026

I Thought I Understood How to Shift Gears. Then I Learned About Dog Boxes.

Racers, mechanics, and gearbox experts—I want to hear from you! If you’ve got experience with dog-engagement transmissions, please share your advice, experiences, or even your horror stories in the comments. We’re all here to learn!

⸻

A few weeks ago, I had the good fortune of meeting Bruce Lawrence.

From the little research I’ve done and our conversations together, I’m beginning to realize just how accomplished this guy really is!

His racing résumé includes 145 victories in 278 starts—a 52% win rate! He also finished second in Formula Mazda at the 2009 SCCA National Championship Runoffs, just a few seconds behind the winner, and has rebuilt hundreds of racing gearboxes.

Not exactly your average guy to sit down and have a b**r with!

We recently did just that, along with some kind of crazy Mexican dip loaded with meat that I absolutely loved. Apparently, it’s one of Bruce’s favorites, and now I understand why!

Somewhere between the b**r, that incredible dip, and a whole lot of racing stories, this guy opened my eyes to something I thought I already understood.

How in the hell can somebody destroy a transmission just by changing gears?

Our conversation started when I mentioned the possibility of putting talented young racers behind the wheel of our Formula Fords and potentially Formula Mazdas.

Bruce immediately raised a concern.

He explained that inexperienced drivers could tear up these racing gearboxes faster than he could rebuild them.

Now, I’ve spent most of my adult life around mechanical equipment. I understand engines, clutches, gears, and manual transmissions.

And having driven our Formula Fords, I certainly knew there was something different about these gearboxes. You can actually feel it when you’re driving the car and changing gears. The engagement is much more direct and mechanical than what you’d experience in a conventional street car.

But here’s something else worth mentioning.

I’m still very much a newcomer to this side of racing myself.

I haven’t even had the opportunity to take our Formula Ford onto the racetrack yet. I’m working toward getting my competition racing license at the beginning of the year.

So while I’ve driven the car and experienced how differently that transmission feels, I haven’t yet had the benefit of learning these things through actual race laps.

And that probably explains part of my ignorance.

I simply hadn’t put two and two together.

I could feel the difference, but I hadn’t stopped to think about what was physically happening inside that transmission every time I moved the shifter.

And I certainly didn’t appreciate just how easily an inexperienced driver could cause some very expensive damage.

I remember thinking, How in the hell can somebody with good driving skills be that destructive just changing gears?

Well, it turns out there’s some fascinating physics involved.

Here’s the first thing that surprised me.

In a conventional manual transmission, synchronizers help match the rotational speeds of the components being connected before a gear engages.

They’re essentially little mechanical peacemakers.

But traditional Hewland-style racing transmissions, like those found in many Formula Fords and original Formula Mazda race cars, don’t have synchronizers.

Instead, they use something called dog engagement.

And here’s where it gets interesting.

The gears are already meshed together!

That’s right. Even when you’re driving in third gear, the fourth-gear pair is already meshed.

You’re not sliding one set of gear teeth into another when you shift.

Instead, you’re using metal projections called engagement dogs to lock a particular gear to a rotating shaft.

When everything happens correctly, the shift is incredibly fast.

But those dogs don’t have synchronizers to gently match the rotating components before they engage.

The driver has to manage the timing, load, and relative speeds.

Imagine trying to connect two spinning pieces of metal turning at different speeds, using nothing but a handful of steel lugs—and expecting them to lock together instantly without breaking anything!

Now imagine doing that repeatedly at racing speeds.

Here’s where the physics really gets interesting.

Imagine you’re approaching a corner at 90 miles per hour.

Your engine is turning 6,000 RPM in fourth gear.

But at that exact same road speed, third gear would require the engine to turn 7,800 RPM.

That’s a difference of 1,800 RPM!

These are hypothetical numbers, but they illustrate something critically important.

When you downshift, the engine must accelerate to match the rotational speed demanded by the lower gear.

Now imagine an inexperienced driver attempting that downshift without properly coordinating the throttle, clutch, and shift lever.

The engagement dogs may clash violently if the shift is poorly timed.

Those hardened steel projections can chip, round off, or suffer damage that eventually prevents the transmission from staying in gear.

But here’s where things can get much worse.

What happens if the lower gear actually engages while the engine is turning far too slowly?

The rear wheels, which are still being driven by the car’s momentum, can suddenly be forced to accelerate the engine toward the RPM required by that lower gear.

That abrupt transfer of energy can shock the drivetrain and disturb traction at the rear wheels.

And remember, we’re talking about a lightweight, rear-wheel-drive racing car approaching a corner at 90 miles per hour.

If the rear tires lose traction at the wrong moment, the car can become unstable or spin.

If the driver selects a gear that’s too low for the road speed, the wheels can mechanically force the engine beyond its safe RPM limit.

And an engine that is mechanically over-revved doesn’t necessarily care where the electronic rev limiter is set.

The consequences could be a destroyed gearbox, a damaged engine, or a racing car heading toward a tire barrier.

All because of a mistake that happened in a fraction of a second.

And Bruce brought up something else that really got my attention.

Racing slicks!

Think about a Formula Mazda running on those wide, sticky racing tires.

Those tires are specifically designed to generate enormous amounts of grip. They aren’t ordinary street tires, and they’re certainly not designed to give up traction easily.

Now imagine making a badly timed downshift while those rear tires are firmly planted against the pavement.

The tires may continue gripping the track while the drivetrain is suddenly forced to absorb a tremendous change in engine speed.

And if the downshift is severe enough to overwhelm that grip, the rear tires can abruptly lose traction.

At 90 miles per hour, approaching a corner, that’s a frightening possibility.

Suddenly, we’re not just talking about chipped engagement dogs or an expensive gearbox rebuild.

We’re talking about potentially over-revving an engine, shocking the entire drivetrain, upsetting the rear of the car, and possibly losing control.

All because the driver selected the wrong gear, or selected the right gear at the wrong moment.

Now I’m beginning to understand why Bruce takes this subject so seriously!

Here’s something else that absolutely fascinated me.

Experienced racers often shift these gearboxes without using the clutch once they’re moving.

Wait a minute.

A manual transmission without using the clutch?

Apparently, yes!

During an upshift, a skilled driver can briefly remove the driving load from the transmission, allowing the dogs to disengage and the next gear to engage.

During downshifts, the driver has to manage the transition to the higher engine speed required by the lower gear, often using a carefully timed throttle blip and, depending on the technique, the clutch.

The timing is critical.

Think about what that means.

The driver’s hands and feet are doing work that synchronizers normally help accomplish in a street car.

And they’re doing it while braking, steering, watching other cars, and trying to squeeze every last tenth of a second out of the lap!

Suddenly, shifting gears isn’t such a simple operation after all.

Now I understand Bruce’s concern about inexperienced drivers.

A talented young racer may have incredible reflexes, excellent car control, and years of competitive experience.

But that doesn’t necessarily mean they’ve learned to coordinate engine speed, gear selection, and drivetrain load in a dog-engagement transmission.

Driving talent doesn’t automatically translate into mechanical understanding.

And the learning curve can get expensive in a hurry.

That doesn’t mean young racers can’t become excellent Formula Ford or Formula Mazda drivers.

It means proper instruction and mechanical understanding are essential before turning them loose in one of these cars.

Here’s what I took away from that conversation.

Two weeks ago, I thought changing gears was pretty straightforward.

Today, I have an entirely different appreciation for what’s happening inside one of these transmissions.

And I haven’t even earned my racing license yet!

The more I learn about Formula Ford and Formula Mazda, the more I appreciate the incredible amount of engineering, physics, and mechanical understanding involved in driving these cars properly.

And sometimes, the most valuable education comes from sitting down, having a b**r, and listening to somebody who’s spent a lifetime doing something you thought you understood.

I suspect I’m not the only mechanically minded person who never fully appreciated what was happening inside a racing dog box.

And on a personal note, I can’t tell you how excited I am to have crossed paths with Bruce Lawrence. Having someone with his experience, knowledge, and racing history to bounce ideas off of is an incredible opportunity, especially as I’m finding my own way into this sport.

I’m genuinely looking forward to many more conversations, learning from his experience, and seeing where all of this takes us.

What a great guy. And an absolute bad ass!

Formula Ford Racing Clutches — Another Great Discussion Turned Into a Technical Resource! 🏎️🔧A few days ago, I started a...
10/08/2026

Formula Ford Racing Clutches — Another Great Discussion Turned Into a Technical Resource! 🏎️🔧

A few days ago, I started a discussion about the extremely heavy clutch pedal in our Lola T540. We had just rebuilt the Tilton clutch, and before spending more money modifying the hydraulic system, I wanted to hear from people who had been dealing with these setups for years.

Once again, the Formula Ford community came through!

What started as a question about reducing pedal effort turned into a much more interesting discussion about pressure plate spring rates, release bearing arrangements, master cylinder sizing, and even the potential for excessive clutch pressure to damage the crankshaft thrust bearing.

One of the biggest takeaways was learning about the different Tilton diaphragm spring designations — white, buff, and orange — and why selecting the correct spring pressure is important for a Kent 1600.

Rather than letting all that information disappear into the comments, we've organized it into another three-page technical reference.

The three attached pages cover:

Tilton clutch spring identification and relative spring pressures

Crankshaft thrust bearing loads and potential wear

Hydraulic release systems and master cylinder considerations

Clutch operation and driving techniques

Inspection priorities before making expensive modifications

Additional advice and resources shared by experienced racers

A special thanks to Keith Averill, Scott Young, Joe Griffin, Donald Boyd, Dan Wise, and everyone else who contributed their knowledge and experience.

As with our recent Hewland gearbox guide, this isn't intended to replace the manufacturer's specifications or professional expertise. We're simply trying to organize and preserve the practical knowledge being shared within this community.

Please take a look at the three attached pages. If we've overlooked something, misunderstood a procedure, or there's additional information worth including, we'd genuinely appreciate your input.

Hewland Mk6/8/9 Gearboxes — Turning a Great Discussion Into a Technical Resource! 🏎️🔧A few days ago, I started a discuss...
10/08/2026

Hewland Mk6/8/9 Gearboxes — Turning a Great Discussion Into a Technical Resource! 🏎️🔧

A few days ago, I started a discussion about servicing and rebuilding Hewland gearboxes. I admitted that while I'm mechanically inclined, these transmissions have always seemed like a little bit of black magic to me. 😂

Apparently, I'm not alone!

The response was outstanding. We heard from racers, mechanics, and gearbox specialists with decades of hands-on experience. Some shared specialized tooling requirements, others offered assembly tricks, common mistakes, wear considerations, and lessons learned the hard way.

Rather than letting all that valuable information get buried in a Facebook comment thread, we decided to organize it into a three-page technical reference.

The attached pages cover:

Routine maintenance versus specialized gearbox setup

Shift fork wear, adjustment, and tooling

Gear stack assembly and component orientation

Practical tips from experienced Hewland mechanics

Wear inspections, torque specifications, and preventive maintenance considerations

Some entertaining lessons learned at the racetrack!

We've tried to recognize the individuals who contributed their knowledge, and I sincerely appreciate everyone who took the time to participate.

This isn't intended to replace the Hewland service manual or the expertise of a professional gearbox builder. It's simply an effort to collect, organize, and preserve the kind of practical knowledge that comes from decades of experience.

At RJ Wiggins MotoSport, we're working toward building a technical resource library for Formula Ford owners, mechanics, and anyone interested in learning more about these cars.

And I think this is a pretty good example of what can happen when a community shares its knowledge.

Please take a look at the three attached pages. If we've missed something, misunderstood a procedure, or there's something you think deserves more attention, I'd genuinely like to hear about it.

Hopefully, this is just the beginning of a much larger collection of useful Formula Ford technical information.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed!

Tilton clutch and  Mk9 guys — looking for some real-world experience.When we were rebuilding the Lola T540, one of the m...
10/04/2026

Tilton clutch and Mk9 guys — looking for some real-world experience.

When we were rebuilding the Lola T540, one of the members of this group recommended converting to a hydraulic release bearing and told us it was basically a must-have. We decided to hold off because we wanted to rebuild everything first and see how the new Tilton clutch actually felt.

Well… now we know. The clutch works, but the pedal effort is extremely heavy.

So we’re going back and looking at that hydraulic release bearing recommendation again.

Before we start throwing parts at it, I’d like to understand the whole system — master-cylinder bore, existing slave cylinder, pedal ratio, hydraulic line size, release mechanism and the Tilton pressure plate itself.

• How much difference did a hydraulic release bearing actually make?
• What master-cylinder bore are you running?
• Has anyone changed the hydraulic line size?
• Did the hydraulic release bearing actually reduce pedal effort, or mainly improve feel and consistency?
• Anything else we should be looking at that could explain an unusually heavy pedal?

We probably should have listened the first time 😂, but we wanted to know what we had before changing it.

Now we know. Time to figure out the right way to improve it.

This is exactly where 40+ years of Formula Ford experience beats throwing parts at the problem

10/04/2026
Hewland Mk8/Mk9 — Taking Some of the Mystery Out of ItThis one is for Formula Ford owners like me — mechanically incline...
10/04/2026

Hewland Mk8/Mk9 — Taking Some of the Mystery Out of It

This one is for Formula Ford owners like me — mechanically inclined and comfortable working on cars, but maybe a little hesitant about opening up a transmission simply because you’ve never done it.

We were fortunate enough to pick up a spare Hewland at CMP. I believe it came from a Royale, and it needs a mainshaft change. Our goal is to always have a serviced and inspected spare ready to go.

Rather than just handing it off to our mechanic and hearing the final results, I think it’s a good opportunity to learn — and I’m hoping to hear from the people who have been inside these things for years.

After reading the Hewland manual and watching a few teardown/reassembly videos, it became pretty clear that taking one apart is one thing — knowing what you’re looking at and putting it back together correctly is another.

A few areas that caught my attention:

• Proper selector fork setup and dog-ring clearance
• Detent balls, springs and selector mechanism assembly
• Hub/bearing changes affecting clearances and overall dimensions
• Correct reverse-idler setup and backlash
• Gear-stack order and orientation
• Making sure the correct matched gear pairs stay together
• Differential preload, ring-and-pinion backlash and pinion depth

Aside from normal maintenance — oil, leaks, dogs, gears, bearings and general wear — what has real-world experience taught you to look for?

Where is the line between Mk8/Mk9 maintenance and servicing that a mechanically inclined owner should learn, and the setup work that’s better left to someone with real gearbox experience?

And maybe most importantly: what are the little tricks or potential mistakes a first-timer needs to know before opening one up?

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