A Guy Automotive

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A Guy Automotive 'A Guy' Automotive is your one stop for honest, quality repairs at very reasonable rates.

ASE Certified L1 Master Automotive Technician. 30 years wrenchin on cars.

Struggling with a check engine light that won't go away, or tired of being told to "just replace the sensor" only for th...
04/23/2026

Struggling with a check engine light that won't go away, or tired of being told to "just replace the sensor" only for the problem to come back two days later?

Most DIY scanners or parts-store code reads only tell you what the computer is seeing—they don't tell you why it's seeing it. A "P0420" code doesn't always mean you need a new catalytic converter; it might just be a $15 vacuum leak that a basic scanner can’t find.

I run a diagnostic-first service focused on finding the root cause before you spend a dime on parts. I’m not a "parts changer"—I’m a master technician using professional-grade equipment like the Snap-on Verus Edge to look at real-time data, wave forms, and electrical integrity.

*What I offer:

* Deep-Dive Diagnostics: Advanced electrical, drivability, and engine performance issues.

* Full-Service Repair: From suspension and brakes to complex engine work.

* Honest Education: I’ll show you exactly what’s wrong and why it needs fixing.

I have openings available all this weekend and through next week. If you're tired of the "guess and check" method and want your car fixed right the first time, send me a message or comment below to get on the schedule.

612-460-8471

OPEN ALL WEEKEND!​Starting today, Friday April 10th, through Sunday the 12th, A Guy Automotive is open for full diagnost...
04/10/2026

OPEN ALL WEEKEND!

​Starting today, Friday April 10th, through Sunday the 12th, A Guy Automotive is open for full diagnostics and expert repairs.

​If that check engine light is staring you down or your ride is making noises it shouldn't, bring it by. No corporate runaround—just honest, fast service to get you back on the road.

​Shoot me a message or hit me up to get on the schedule!

03/27/2026

Hit me up if you need a diagnostic, got an electrical gremlin the shop can't figure out, a brake job you need done over the weekend, or just wanna save some of that tax return on labor costs.

612-460-8471 Call or Text.

I have openings all weekend long, so if you only got time on the weekend, bring her by and I'll get ya fixed up!

02/15/2026

Is about that time of year...when folks start thinkin bout them repairs.....

STOP! Don't Top Off Your Brake Fluid Until You Read This! 🛑Seeing your brake fluid low can be alarming, but as an ASE Ma...
11/29/2025

STOP! Don't Top Off Your Brake Fluid Until You Read This! 🛑

Seeing your brake fluid low can be alarming, but as an ASE Master Tech, I'm here to tell you: DO NOT just add fluid without understanding WHY it's low. It could be normal, or it could be a serious problem!

⚠️ When Low is NORMAL:
As your brake pads wear down, the calipers need more fluid to extend further and press the pads against the rotors. This means the fluid level in your reservoir will naturally drop slightly over time. This is normal, and usually, no fluid should be added.

🚨 When Low is a DANGER SIGNAL:
If your brake fluid is EXTREMELY low, or the reservoir is EMPTY, that is almost always a sign of a LEAK in your braking system. This is an urgent safety issue and requires immediate inspection.

🚫 The Danger of Overfilling:
Simply topping off the fluid without knowing the cause is risky! If your fluid is low due to pad wear, adding fluid will overfill the system. When new pads are eventually installed, the calipers will be compressed, pushing that excess fluid out of the reservoir.
* Damage Risk: This fluid can spill onto your engine bay, corroding paint, plastic, and even wiring. It's highly corrosive!
* Safety Risk: An overfilled system can also affect brake performance.

Don't guess with your brakes! Let a professional properly diagnose a low fluid level.

Concerned about your brake fluid? Give A Guy Automotive a call today for a professional brake system inspection!

The 60-Second Engine Saver: Are You Checking Your Oil Correctly? ⛽️Checking your oil is the simplest task that prevents ...
11/27/2025

The 60-Second Engine Saver: Are You Checking Your Oil Correctly? ⛽️

Checking your oil is the simplest task that prevents catastrophic engine failure. It takes less than a minute!

Here’s the Master Tech guide to locating and checking your dipstick:

🔍 Where to Look (Follow the Color!):
Most dipsticks are easy to spot and usually have a bright yellow or orange handle.
* V8/Inline Engines: Typically on the side of the engine block.
* Transverse V6/4-Cylinder: Usually located toward the front of the engine or in the valve cover.

📏 Reading the Dipstick:
1. Pull it out, wipe it clean.
2. Re-insert completely, then pull it out again.
3. You will see two marks (lines or dots):
* TOP Mark: Full level.
* BOTTOM Mark: Low level (usually indicates the need for 1 quart).
* Crosshatch Area: The "Good-to-Go Zone" for most cars.

🚨 CRITICAL WARNING for Hyundai/Kia Owners (2018+):
Many of these modern engines are known to burn excessive oil. Driving too long without checking can lead to the engine running dry and failing completely. Check your oil frequently!

🗓️ When to Check:
Make it a habit to check every time you add fuel, or at least every few weeks.

If you are uncomfortable, don't hesitate! Most mechanics (including us at A Guy Automotive) will happily check your fluid levels for free. Just ask!

🚨 THE "RED/YELLOW/GREEN" LIE: Why Your Mechanic Uses the MAP System AGAINST You 🤫Hey folks, it's A Guy here, and today w...
11/26/2025

🚨 THE "RED/YELLOW/GREEN" LIE: Why Your Mechanic Uses the MAP System AGAINST You 🤫

Hey folks, it's A Guy here, and today we're pulling back the curtain on a system originally meant to help you, but now is often used to scare you: The MOTORIST ASSURANCE PROGRAM (MAP) color code system.

The Truth vs. The Scam:

* The Original Intent (The Truth): MAP was created to standardize vehicle inspection reports. GREEN means good, YELLOW means caution/service may be needed soon, and RED means immediate repair for safety/reliability. It was supposed to be about TRANSPARENCY and EMPOWERMENT.

* The Bastardized Reality (The Lie): Most shops have completely corrupted this system.

* Yellow is their PROFIT ZONE: They make the "Yellow" recommendation sound like an impending disaster. They'll tell you your part is "down to the minimum," even if the remaining life is perfectly safe for the next 5-10k miles.

* The PRESSURE PLAY: Instead of saying, "This part is Yellow, check it again at your next oil change," they say, "We HIGHLY RECOMMEND you do this today before it becomes a real problem."

That PRESSURE is the sign of a shop focused on sales, not safety.

🛡️ A Guy's Tip for YOUR Wallet & Safety:

* A Yellow Rating is NOT an Emergency. It means you have time to research, budget, and get a second opinion. USE YOUR TIME.

* Ask for the Numbers. A good mechanic will tell you the actual measurement of a critical part. (e.g., "Your brake pads are 4mm. The replacement spec is 3mm. You have time.").

* Challenge the Recommendation. Ask: "What is the specific MAP guideline that puts this in the Yellow or Red category?" If they can't answer with specifics, walk away.

---

Ever been pressured into a "Yellow" repair? Share your story so we can expose the pressure tactics! Comment below! 👇

🚨 The Auto Parts Store Trap:They scan your car, give you a "DTC" (Diagnostic Trouble Code), and a list of "Most Probable...
11/25/2025

🚨 The Auto Parts Store Trap:
They scan your car, give you a "DTC" (Diagnostic Trouble Code), and a list of "Most Probable Fixes." Their goal? To sell you parts. You buy a sensor, replace it, and the light comes back on. Why?

💡 A Code is NOT a Diagnosis.
A DTC (like P0420) doesn't tell you what's broken; it tells you what SYSTEM has a fault. It's a symptom, like a cough isn't always pneumonia. A P0420 could be a faulty sensor, a bad catalytic converter, an exhaust leak, or even another unrelated issue causing incorrect readings.

👨‍🔧 The Diagnostician's Skill (Our Value):
We get paid for our knowledge and skill, not for selling you parts you don't need. A true diagnostician uses:
* Advanced scan tools (not just code readers)
* Specialized test equipment (oscilloscopes, smoke machines)
* Technical diagrams and experience
* Critical thinking..to interpret the code, run tests, and pinpoint the ACTUAL root cause.

You pay for our time because that expertise saves you money in the long run by fixing the car right the first time, avoiding wasted parts and unnecessary repairs.

Don't let a free scan cost you hundreds. What dash lights are currently giving you trouble? 👇

Need an accurate diagnosis from an ASE Master Tech? Give A Guy Automotive a call today to fix the *real* problem!

SHAKING WHEN YOU BRAKE? Your Car Tells You Where the Problem Is! 🛑That vibration you feel when hitting the pedal is alar...
11/22/2025

SHAKING WHEN YOU BRAKE? Your Car Tells You Where the Problem Is! 🛑

That vibration you feel when hitting the pedal is alarming, but your car is giving you a free diagnostic code! As an ASE Master Tech, here is how you tell where the issue is coming from:

➡️ Vibration in the STEERING WHEEL:
The problem is in the FRONT ROTORS (warped or uneven wear). They do 70% of the stopping work, so they fail first.

➡️ Vibration in the SEAT / Floorboard:
The problem is in the REAR ROTORS.

➡️ Brake Pedal Kicks Back/Pulsates:
This is usually caused by uneven wear or parallelism issues on the rotors, typically the front vented ones.

⚠️ The Modern Rotor Truth:
Rotors used to be heavy and thick, making them great candidates for resurfacing (turning on a lathe). Today, due to EPA rules and weight-saving for fuel economy, rotors are thinner.

When you try to machine a thin, warped rotor, the problem often comes right back. That's why the best, most HONEST fix is usually a full Pads and Rotors replacement service. It prevents wasted time and money.

Are you feeling the shake in your wheel or your seat? 👇 Let me know!

The $175 Secret: How to Clean Your Direct Injection Engine for $5 ⛽💰If your car was built in the last 10 years, it likel...
11/20/2025

The $175 Secret: How to Clean Your Direct Injection Engine for $5 ⛽💰

If your car was built in the last 10 years, it likely has a Direct Injection (DI) engine. As an ASE Master Tech, here is one critical thing you need to know to save BIG money on a deep clean service:

The Problem (The DI Dirty Secret):

Old engines sprayed fuel on the back of the intake valves, which kept them clean. Newer DI engines spray fuel directly into the cylinder, meaning that gunk and carbon build up on the valves, ruining performance and fuel economy!

The Master Tech Solution: Fuel Injector Cleaner

Running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner can prevent this expensive buildup!

✅ How Often: Add a bottle to your tank before filling up, ideally every tank, or at least every other tank fill. Consistency is key!
✅ How to Save: You can buy a good cleaner at the auto store, but honestly, even the $5 bottle at the dollar store can help if you use it regularly!

Do this now and you could prevent a shop service that costs $150–$200 later on.

⚠️ Note for Capless Systems: You MUST use the filler neck adapter that came with your vehicle to add the cleaner!

Have you ever used a fuel system cleaner? What difference did you notice? 👇

Address

Nope
Bloomington, MN
55420

Opening Hours

Wednesday 10am - 6pm
Thursday 10am - 6pm

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