27/05/2026
Here’s the typical process for refurbishing and powder coating alloy wheels, from battered curb-kissed survivors to showroom gleamers. 🛞✨
1. Inspection & Strip Down
The tyre, weights, valves, and TPMS sensors are removed.
The wheel gets checked for:
• Cracks
• Buckles
• Corrosion
• Previous bad repairs
If needed, welding or straightening happens first.
2. Chemical Stripping / Blast Cleaning
Old paint, lacquer, and corrosion are removed completely. Usually by:
• Chemical dip tank
• Media blasting
• Or both
The aim is bare clean aluminium. No shortcuts hiding under fresh paint like rust under a pirate ship plank. ☠️
3. Repair Stage
Any kerb damage is smoothed out:
• Sanding
• Filling (if appropriate)
• CNC machining for diamond cuts
• Welding for cracks
Buckled wheels are straightened before coating.
4. Degassing
The wheel goes into an oven before coating to “sweat out” trapped gases and contaminants from the metal.
Skipping this step can cause tiny bubbles in the finish later.
5. Powder Application
Electrostatic powder is sprayed onto the wheel.
The powder particles cling to the metal using static electricity like iron filings finding a magnet.
Common finishes:
• Gloss black
• Satin black
• Sparkle silver
• Anthracite
• Bronze
• Clear lacquer top coats
6. Oven Curing
The wheel is baked at high temperature, usually around:
180-200°c
The powder melts and chemically cures into a hard protective shell.
7. Lacquer Coat (if required)
Many finishes get a final clear powder lacquer for:
• UV protection
• Gloss depth
• Extra durability
Then it’s cured again.
8. Final Checks & Rebuild
The wheels cool down and are inspected for:
• Coverage
• Imperfections
• Dust nibs
• Colour consistency
Then:
• New valves fitted
• Tyres refitted
• Wheels balanced
Done properly, the finish is far tougher than normal wet paint and ready to battle British roads, brake dust, and supermarket car parks armed with rogue trolleys. 🚗💨