1929fordhotrod.com

1929fordhotrod.com Just a guy that likes to build things and currently working on a 1929 Ford roadster using C4 Corvette suspension components.

Information about building a 1929 Model A Ford roadster hotrod using C4 Corvette suspension along with great stories, events, and lots of useful custom car information.

06/02/2020

I have compiled the chassis plans and actual pictures of the chassis I designed and built for my 1929 Ford roadster using 1986 Corvette suspension components. These are now for sale for $25USD. Once payment is received an electronic file, PDF format will be sent to you via email. Let me know if your interested.

This is what I've been up to for that last while. I just finished putting together a small cnc router. I machined the pa...
10/30/2019

This is what I've been up to for that last while. I just finished putting together a small cnc router. I machined the parts for the z-axis and re-purposed an old x/y table. I have it calibrated with a few thousands on an inch currently. I've been fooling around etching abs plastic and aluminum plate but do need proper bits. This will be a prototype for 2 bigger machines I will build. One to machine aluminium plate and a second for my plasma cutter. I'll use this current small machine for printed circuit board production and small metal tags. It's using an Ardunio processor, a shield to drive the stepper motors and a 24vdc power supply. I can see many uses for it on the hot rod.

Yesterday I decided it was time to correct an over site when I made the steering shaft. You will notice on 2 pictures th...
07/22/2019

Yesterday I decided it was time to correct an over site when I made the steering shaft. You will notice on 2 pictures the yokes for the universals do not line up. Fortunately each end on both yokes had the yoke pressed fit onto a spline. The fix was easy. All I did was heat the yokes up to remove them and position them correctly. A bit of clean up afterwards on a wire wheel and a touch up with some paint and everything was as it should be. The finished repair is shown with the correct yoke alignment . As they say "the devil is in the details" 😉

I decided to replace my lake style headers I made from a weld up kit with some stainless steel ones. Of course the fit w...
07/20/2019

I decided to replace my lake style headers I made from a weld up kit with some stainless steel ones. Of course the fit was wrong which meant adjusting the side pipes. I still wanted to keep the side pipes on the outside of the chassis and under my he body to prevent the dreaded leg burn. After lots of fitting I figured something out and had to add almost 4" after the first 45 degree turn. With the headers having a longer collector tube and what I added this pushed the side pipes closer to the rear wheels. This is what I wanted with hopes of not getting the smell of exhaust fumes swirling back at me while driving. Now that the side pipes moved farther back, the frame mounting needed to change on the pipes. I also decided to weld a fl**ge onto the side pipes. After lots of welding and grinding the pictures show what I ended up with. Next I will paint the side pipes with VHT till I make my powder coat oven and powder coat them.

A few weeks ago a finished making, adjusting and painting the 4' metal brake. Yesterday and today I was forming 18 gauge...
04/29/2019

A few weeks ago a finished making, adjusting and painting the 4' metal brake. Yesterday and today I was forming 18 gauge steel with the brake and doing a bit of bead rolling. I made 2 lower level compartments for the hot rod trunk. A floor with moveable covers will go over them. I'm not totally happy with the lower panel for the bigger compartment and may make a new one with a different bead roll pattern. Something to sleep on. I must say having a powered bead roller and the metal brake is making the design and fabrication of the trunk much easier.

The bead roller is finally painted, wired and finished ready to use. The x-box power supply is perfect to power the winc...
03/04/2019

The bead roller is finally painted, wired and finished ready to use. The x-box power supply is perfect to power the winch drive. No-load current was 3.2A and while rolling 18 gauge painted aluminum it was a bit over 5A. This is well under the 14A rating of the x-box power supply. If I find it necessary after I use this for a bit I'll add a variable speed control.
After a second coat of paint on the metal brake tonight I'll be in business and ready to make the trunk for the hot rod.

I just finished the stand and making several changes to the 4' metal brake I made. It has a cam action to clamp the shee...
02/28/2019

I just finished the stand and making several changes to the 4' metal brake I made. It has a cam action to clamp the sheet metal. It still needs a few refinements but is now good enough to use for build the trunk for the hot rod.
Today I lucked out at the thrift store a got a Xbox power supply for the bead roller. It's rated at 12v and a bit over 14amps. The best part was it only was $2. Tonight I started to wire it up with a reverse drive feature. I'll post more on this later. I never though building a trunk for the hot rod would be so time consuming and I haven't even started it yet because I built a metal brake and powered a bead roller.

Tonight I finished the basic part of the power conversion for the bead roller. My first stand was a waste of time and go...
02/18/2019

Tonight I finished the basic part of the power conversion for the bead roller. My first stand was a waste of time and got cut apart and built a second version which I am much more happier with. I found with the v-belt drive I was getting a minor amount of slipping while beading some 18 gauge steel. I didn't like this so I converted the drive to use #35 roller chain. This is now much better. The next step is to install the electrics and make a guard for the chain and sprocket. Oh course I don't do anything easy so I will be dreaming up and making a few dies for this bead roller.

I'm working on motorizing an old bead roller that's been sitting in the shop for a while. I'm using a 1500lb winch for t...
02/04/2019

I'm working on motorizing an old bead roller that's been sitting in the shop for a while. I'm using a 1500lb winch for the drive. I machined a 2 1/2" aluminum pulley with a 1" bore for the winch spool. One side of the spool was machined off and turned down to 1". I took the hand crank off the bead roller and machined a 1" to 3/4" adapter so I could mount a 6" pulley I had in the shop. A 1/4" plate was welded to the bead roller so I could mount the modified winch drive. I'm using a 1/2" x 29" v-belt. I tested this out tonight on 18 gauge steel and the speed was perfect. Now I need to make a stand and foot pedal for the forward/reverse switch. My first test run was with a 3/8" v-belt but there was a bit of slippage. The 1/2" belt solved that problem. Once this is done I'll start making the labels for the hot rod trunk.

I needed to figure a better way of mounting my front license plate then having it hang off my steering rack under the ra...
01/25/2019

I needed to figure a better way of mounting my front license plate then having it hang off my steering rack under the rad. I gave this a bit of thought and decided to make a spreader bar, and a bracket for the license plate that would mount to the front of the frame. I used 1 1/2" heavy wall pipe for the project. Getting the angles right on the pipe had to be done carefully so it would look right. After a considerable amount of test fitting and grinding I felt I was ready to weld up the two parts of the spreader bar together. Then I cut end caps, for the bar, drilled a 1/2" hole and welded a nut onto the end cap. I did this for both sides of the bar. The ends were then carefully welded to the bar and the welds ground smooth. Years ago when I designed and built the chassis, I welded a pipe inside the front frame horns having this in mind just for extra strength for when I mount the spreader bar. I drilled the holes in the frame and bolted the new spreader bar in place. I was happy with the fit. I used 1/8" plate for the license plate backing, made a mounting bracket for the chassis and used rivnuts for mounting bolts for the license plate. This only cost my time and I used materials I already had in the shop. At some point I'll machine a unique aluminum license plate frame. Maybe next weekend winter.

Well it's gotten cold and the snow has been blowing since yesterday. Last night I decided to mount the coil over shocks ...
01/21/2019

Well it's gotten cold and the snow has been blowing since yesterday. Last night I decided to mount the coil over shocks with the newly machined lower mounts. Before I did, I removed the lower control arms and drilled a new hole so I could move the shock in a bit closer and reduce its angle. This change has provided the exact ride height I want. Now I need to do a few calculations and save my pennies for new coil over shocks. The ones I'm using are from the rear of a Jaguar and were suppose to be only temporary.

While it's cold outside I decided to make some new aluminum lower shock mounts for the hot rod. When I originally starte...
01/17/2019

While it's cold outside I decided to make some new aluminum lower shock mounts for the hot rod. When I originally started building the hot rod I didn't have a milling machine so I made some lower mounts out of 2" stainless steel tube. This past summer I also made out of things laying around in the shop a buffing/polishing machine using old furnace fan motors and 10" buffing wheels I had been finding on sale. It's nice to have a dedicated machine now for polishing the aluminum parts I fabricate.

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Strathroy, ON
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