03/23/2019
My friend Craig once opined that old Tonti-framed Moto Guzzis are nothing so much as trains. Tonti-framed or not, the best Guzzis do have a fundamentally locomotive power to them, from my old 850 T3 to my relatively-recent Griso. The recent smallblock bikes tend to be a bit less trainlike; they don’t take a set in a corner like the old Tonti big-block bikes. The California Touring, however, has it all. A diesel-electric-like idle, a great thronk of midrange that makes you forget that it works up high, too, and a chassis that eases into place in corners, remaining implacable while holding a line.
No rail line runs directly from Calexico, on the Mexican border, up to Monterey. Handily, the Goose goes where I point it, as long as I remember to top off the tank every 120- odd miles. From the razor-wire fence splitting Calexico from Mexicali, I steered the bike north on SR-111 (no Love Missile jokes, please), rounded the Salton Sea on SR-86, stopped in Salton City so I could get that great song named for the place stuck in my head, then grabbed dinner at . The steak frites were divine. I am bringing here for one of the numerous steaks I owe him.
The next morning, I struck out from Palm Springs for Monterey, slicing through the San Emigdios on Cuddy Valley, taking 33 through the oilfields, and then clipping the top of the Carrizo Plain on 58. Normally the plain’s nigh abandoned, and I like it that way. But the hillsides abutting the plain on the west side are awash in color right now, so everyone’s out trying to get a piece of the superbloom. Which, I admit, is pretty amazing, but maybe not quite as good as Eric Bloom. D. boon, after all, was not Superbloom, then Richard Hell, Joe Strummer, and John Doe. Still, I like to imagine old d. bounding through the fields, perhaps yelling, “TOADIES!”
The rain arrived 70 miles south of Salinas, falling on the roof of the Quail Lodge as I wait for the off-brand NyQuil to take me away. The train left for San Francisco today. I was on it. It wouldn’t leave without me.