Master-Tech Automotive

Master-Tech Automotive Auto repair, Computer Diagnosis, Electrical, Suspension, Timing Belts, Water Pumps, Glass, Transmission, Oil Changes, Alignments, A/C and Heating, Brakes.

The Nova we built is finished and at gateway Classic Cars in San Antonio. Here is the link:
05/19/2023

The Nova we built is finished and at gateway Classic Cars in San Antonio. Here is the link:

Offered from Gateway Classic Cars ( #314-SAN), this Black 1972 Chevrolet Nova powered by a 496 CID V8 engine with a TH400 Automatic transmission. We have 3704 Classics For Sale in our 21 Indoor Showrooms Nationwide.

Starting another project.I told myself and Mary Ann that the Fairlane was the last one. "Yeah right", she says.I bought ...
08/05/2020

Starting another project.

I told myself and Mary Ann that the Fairlane was the last one. "Yeah right", she says.
I bought a Nova on ebay a week and half ago which was in Florida. I asked the guy on the phone and by text about any rust and he assured me there was a small spot on a fender. So I bought it. It looked real nice in the pictures. When it got here and I got it up on the lift it was a rust disaster.
I notified the guy and told him that I assumed since he was a car dealer that he inspected his inventory and he said he had no idea. I told him that if he had any business ethics that he would give me my money back and I would pay to have it shipped back to him. I lost a grand on the deal but learned a lesson and that is you can't trust everyone.
I like to think everyone is good and honest and I know better but I don't like thinking bad about anyone in general.
He made it right when he didn't have to since it was an As Is sale.
Moving forward. I was looking on craigslist and found a 68 Chevelle Coupe Roller, a tandem axle car hauler with a winch and brakes for a great price in San Antonio. The car had no interior at all, no engine or transmission and came with extra fenders and grills with core supports. Right up my alley !
Even if it had be a complete car I would have taken it apart and thrown most of the stuff away anyhow.
I took it completely apart, put the body on my rotisserie and the frame on a body dolly. I have a guy coming tomorrow to blast them both with Wet Glass Beads with a rust inhibitor. That will give a me a couple of days to spray it with Epoxy Primer and then start block sanding it and get it real nice and straight.
I have already made a parts list and ordered 95% of what I will need to restore it.
Instead of building my own engine I opted to get one already done by Skip White in Kingsport, TN. a 503 HP 383 Stroker. The transmission will be a 700r4 4 speed overdrive automatic with a 3000 stall converter. researched these guys and they know what they are doing and the cost is about what I would spend doing my own and it comes with a 2 year warranty. Once they finish building it they will dyno tune it on video and post it to youtube with my name. I will upload that video when it becomes available.
The engine is a 503 HP 383 Stroker. The transmission will be a 700r4 4 speed overdrive automatic with a 3000 stall converter. rear end will be a Dana 60 with 373 posi built by Strange.
brakes are 4 wheel disc by Wilwood.
I am installing a Pro Touring suspension by RideTech front and rear.
If space allows I will have 20" x 10" wheels in the rear and either 19" x 9" or 18" x 9" in the front with Cooper Zeon RS3 tires all around
I am doing the seats in a Ultra Leather with the period correct style patterns.
More pictures as it progresses.
The first picture is of the Nova I sent back. Looks are very deceiving as you can tell.

08/06/2016

I made this video for Richard Ferrara. He was interested in buying the car. I had finished the car a month or so prior to the video and found a 1934 Chevy Coupe I wanted real bad. Something had to go to be able to get the coupe. Rich sent me a picture of the time slip he got at the track in this car. It ran low 12's on street tires. I did a full port job on the heads and it had a very restrictive intake. I put that intake on it so I could keep the everything under the hood. The engine sat pretty high due to the tall deck. If he were to install a high rise single plane intake then this car would be in the 11's without a problem and that's naturally aspirated with no power adders. I am sure if he were to put a 150 shot of NOS it would get down to the low 11's if not the high 10's. He bought this car for his wife to take to the track from time to time since he already has his own track cars. This car rides and drives really nice ! It never ran hot and you could drive it anywhere. I hated to see it go, but hey, I have built and sold so many that I could do another but the 34 Coupe will do me just fine. I say the 34 is my last for awhile until I get that itch and the need for speed again. There is a small tour of the shop included.

08/06/2016
08/06/2016
Hood and sides all fitting to the car, ground and smoothed edges and to keep body lines and gaps consistent. Next thing ...
01/03/2016

Hood and sides all fitting to the car, ground and smoothed edges and to keep body lines and gaps consistent. Next thing on the list is to fabricate the double latch release and lock. I used 3/16" flat plate to make a bracket that will attach to the top left bolt on the brake booster. Drilled the bolt hole, After some careful measuring, I bent plate, then cut a notch in the plate for the release rod to travel through. I then welded a support piece on the inside corner so the pressure on the rod from the latch spring would not make it flex. I then welded the rod stop bracket onto the steel plate bracket. I used a piece of stainless 7 mm tubing and tapped 10-32 threads on one end so I could attach a swivel stud that will serve as a pivot at the latch assembly. The latches are release or opened by pushing the rod from inside the car. I used a piece of round steel stock, drilled a 7.06 hole and beveled one end. I slid this on the tubing close to the billet k**b and then I bent the rod to clear things under the dash. When the rod is pushed in the round piece of steel stock will enter the hole in the bracket and when the rod is pushed down the round steel piece will rest on the back of the slotted hole and keep the hood latches in the released position. After this part is finished I will start cleaning the panels and other pieces with degreaser and Prep-Sol to get them ready for primer and paint.

01/01/2016
01/01/2016

Happy New Year everyone ! Here is the progress of the one piece hood and sides I am making for the car. Fabricated some side braces out of small square tubing and welded in some counter sunk threaded bungs for the side to fasten too, The bottoms of the sides will have tabs welded on at the front and rear of each panel and the tabs will slide onto a tab on each end of the body that will have a pin sticking out of it. Just finished all the fab work on the hood. Welded on tabs for the prop rod and made some cross braces to keep the hood stable. I bought a new Miller-Matic 141 for welding light metal and it works awesome ! You set one dial for the size of wire you are running through the gun and you set the other dial for the thickness of material you are welding and it sets you wire speed and heat for you. I will post more pictures and the project moves along.

09/17/2014

My son Jacob and I started another project. A 1970 Mustang Coupe from the ground up. It will be painted Grabber Blue with a Mach 1 hood scoop and C-Stripes down both sides. A c-6 3 speed automatic transmission, a 477 Big Block with all kinds of go fast goodies, a 355 TruTrac Posi rear end. The interior will be all new and will have a custom gauge setup that we put together that uses all the latest technology. I will post pictures of the car the way we bought it and some during and after pictures as the project unfolds. Jacob was inducted into the world of sand blasting and has already taken his first sand bath. Sand blasting the large items like rearend and other big parts requires doing it out in the back lot and that stuff flies everywhere, gets in your hair, ears, down your shirt and other places I won't mention.
Hope you like it !

Something many of us don't talk about much is in need of your support and that is Abuse. Did you know that 1 in 4 women ...
04/23/2014

Something many of us don't talk about much is in need of your support and that is Abuse. Did you know that 1 in 4 women will experience family violence. 1 in 4 women will be sexually assaulted. 1 in 4 girls and 1 in 6 boys will suffer from child abuse. Not only do we need to pray for the victims but we also need to pray for the abuser.
Master-Tech will be donating 5.00 from every oil change and 5% of all repairs over 200.00 to Hays-Caldwell Women's Center. You can go to www.hcwc.org for details on other ways you can help.

The Hays-Caldwell Women’s Center serves victims of family violence, sexual assault and child abuse in Caldwell County and Hays County in central Texas.

04/19/2014

Ignoring the warnings your car sends out could leave you stranded on the side of the road or with a costly repair bill. The closer attention you pay to your vehicle, the more likely you are to detect small problems before they become bigger, more expensive problems.
We've all done it: While sitting in traffic, maybe at a red light, you listen. Is that a whirring sound? What is that whirring sound? Where is it coming from? Is it from my car? Is it in the engine? Please don't let it be in the engine. It's just the air conditioner. Or maybe it's not even my car. The car in the next lane looks like a real clunker. I bet it's that car.

Repeat with any sound, any smell, any weird feeling you get while driving. Car jerking around? They need to pave this road. Engine smells funny? That's because this whole town smells. Check engine light come on? It's probably a loose gas cap. And of course, if you hear something strange, turn up the radio and drown it out.

Because otherwise, these things can give you a panic attack. With every sound, smell, and insistent light on the dashboard, we see days without a car to get to work and money flying out of our wallets like winged monkeys in little red vests and hats.

Here are a few of the scariest signs of engine trouble, the likely causes. And yes, they almost all require immediate attention -- but there's no need to panic. Unless you actually see those flying monkeys. They're creepy.
You fire up the engine and the dashboard lights up like carnival. This is the car's computer checking everything out. One by one, each of the lights turns off and you're ready to drive.

If they don't turn off, though, that's bad. Either very bad or slightly bad, depending on which light remains lit. These lights are connected to sensors that monitor everything your car does. If something seems out of whack, the computer will use these lights to tell you what it is.

The lights you'll probably want to pay the most attention to are:
*Check Oil/Oil Level Low
*Oil Pressure Low
*Check Engine

The "Check Engine" lamp is perhaps the most troubling of lights because it could mean so many different things, from "you didn't screw the gas cap on tightly enough" to "look out for pistons flying through the hood and into the stratosphere." The easiest way to find out what this light is telling you is to hook your vehicle up to a scan tool. This diagnostic tool looks a little like an oversized calculator and plugs into a communication port inside the car. After you instruct it to perform the scan, it "speaks" with your car's computers to find out exactly what's prompting the light to turn on.
A qualified Repair Facility will have a Scanner and can perform the diagnosis.

DOIN THE JERK

No, we're not talking about that cool dance where your knees kind of open and close and you move from side to side, and you can get all low and funky with it. We're talking about a car doing the jerk, which is much less cool.

Driving should be free of jerking, surging, or stalling. It should be smooth.

But if your car is popping and locking, that's a pretty strong sign of engine trouble. It could be due to fouled spark plugs, clogged fuel lines or fuel filter, the main computer reading the driving situation wrong, or many, many other issues.

The last thing you want is for your vehicle to take its own sweet time accelerating, or to give out entirely, as you're merging onto a busy highway with other vehicles barreling down behind you. Likewise, high revving at idle or acceleration that's out of your control are situations you should have a qualified technician investigate and repair as soon as possible.

Preventive maintenance, including regular oil changes and belt replacements at recommended intervals help to keep you out of the danger zone.

UNCLE BENNY

You know how your uncle Benny makes all those sounds at Thanksgiving, and he thinks they're hilarious? Well, if your car ever sounds like Uncle Benny, you've got serious problems.

A tapping or popping that sounds like Benny doing deep knee bends (which never happens), for instance, could indicate detonation taking place within the engine's cylinders. This happens when gasoline ignites prematurely in the combustion chamber of the cylinders and can potentially result in expensive piston damage.

If you hear a grinding noise when you attempt to start your car, your starter motor might need to be replaced. If you hear grinding when shifting between gears, it could be transmission replacement time! It's not as fun as it sounds. And if you're driving a manual transmission, do not listen to Uncle Benny when he says, "Grind it 'til you find it."

In most cases, a little bit of noise from either your car or Uncle Benny -- like a mild ticking or clicking -- might be normal. Cars with roller rockers in their valve trains, for instance, emit some ticking noise; and fuel-injected vehicles also produce slightly audible clicks from the injectors.

If in doubt, listen intently, try to track down the general area of the noise as best you can and then attempt to explain it in as much detail as you can to a qualified service professional.

WHATS THAT SMELL !

Cars rarely smell delightful. They're burning gasoline or diesel fuel, there's hot metal under the hood, and your brother ate a burrito just before he got in the car. There's not much you can do about your brother besides open all the windows and monitor his lunch intake, but any other automotive smells that make it into the passenger compartment spell trouble.

The scent may signal oil or coolant leaking from their normally closed-loop systems, or it may indicate dangerous exhaust gases invading your car's interior. Car and truck exhaust contains toxic gases such as carbon monoxide, so if the inside of your car smells as if you were standing behind your car, get out and get it fixed. Fight the urge to take a little nap first. So sleepy. That's the carbon monoxide talking, friends. At least open a window on your way to the shop.

The smell of burning rubber could mean you just did an awesome smoky burnout, or it could be telling you that drive belts or accessory belts beneath the hood are damaged, loose, or worn out. It could also mean that a rubber hose carrying important fluids is touching something that it shouldn't -- something that's too hot and is melting the rubber.

In any case, it's a good idea to act sooner rather than later, as these nasty smells could be linked to a much more crucial and expensive component.

I will try to post more soon. Hope some of these tips help you. Have a Blessed and Happy Easter !

04/18/2014

Lets talk about Spark Plugs for a moment. Some Spark Plugs are still in the 3 or 4 dollar range but there are some that cost as much as 20 dollars each. The manufacturer of your vehicle will have specs on the type of Spark Plug your vehicle requires. Now that we know the price of a Spark Plug, lets talk about what gets the Voltage to the Plug. The Ignition Coil provides the electrical connection to the Plug by either being mounted directly to the Plug or the electrical current could be transmitted via a Plug Wire.
Coils can range in price from 50 to 300 dollars. If your car feels like its running rough or has noticeable loss in power with a jerking or surging feeling then it is time to have it looked at. An Engine misfire can ruin the Catalytic Convertor which is responsible for keeping harmful emission levels to a minimum. Raw fuel that is not being burned because of a faulty Coil or Plug can lead to more serious issues. The cost to replace a Catalytic Convertor is 600 to 1300 dollars and on top of that you still need to fix the root cause of the Catalytic Convertor failure. Compare that to the cost to tune up your vehicle and the math speaks for itself. My next post which is coming up shortly will be about the Signs your vehicle gives you letting you know it wants some attention. Until then, Have a GREAT Day !

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170 Bunton Creek Road
Kyle, TX
78640

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