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Mike'll Do It, Cibolo, TX (2026)

12/23/2023

Everyone with a Honda J-series engine knows about VCM trashing piston rings, and early J-series engines consuming oil.

I just found a combination of filter and oil that has a solid chance to prevent and mitigate the issue.

This discovery is due to Cummins, in a partnership with Valvoline, developing an oil for the ISX15 engine. The oil is called Premium Blue Restore. It is a combination of high grade synthetic and the Premium Blue Extreme additive pack that was already available. It's only available at select retailers and distributors, most notably the Cummins service shops and dealers. The oil has been very successful for Cummins and they just released the Gen 2 version. The price isn't clear but I'll have an update on that once I give it a spin.

The filter, which I will need to verify whether it is a direct replacement or an adapter is needed, is the Fleetguard LF3462.

Stay tuned for updates on this! The combination has the potential to save VCM engines from costly replacement or rebuild, and reduction in oil consumption and carbon deposits in the other blocks. The hunt for both might take a moment but I'm excited to run it and get the oil analyzed afterwards.

12/17/2023

2004 Honda Odyssey

Complaint: it has power, but it won't turn over. When the key is turned it acts like the battery is dead.

Diagnosis: starter solenoid failure

Diagnostic process: bang on the starter while trying to crank it, nothing but smoke from the solenoid.

Pretty simple repair on these vans. Pull the battery, pull the tray, pull the starter. Tray bolts are 12mm heads, starter power cable is a 12mm nut, pull the bottom starter case bolt with an 8mm socket to remove one of the harness brackets, remove 2x 17mm mounting bolts. Transfer the bracket to the new starter, and reverse the steps.

12/16/2023

2012 Ford Focus

As they say at the start of SVU, harsh language is present in this episode. Viewer discretion is advised.

Complaint: "it was running rough for awhile, and it just died."
Diagnosis: purge valve solenoid harness and throttle body harness both gave up the ghost.
Resolution: new connectors with pigtails

First thing is to get an idea of how much lead you actually need. Both pigtails came with ~8 inches of extra wire. Trimmed them back to ~3 inches. Cut the harnesses down half an inch to provide clean wire. Stripped the insulation off the pigtails and harnesses, solder-shrink together, heat shrink to protect, and finally wrap it up to prevent future damage.

Final result is a repair that not only appears OEM, it exceeds what the manufacturer installed on the production line. Both harnesses have an extra inch of lead to prevent pulling, rubbing, and chafing. Both harnesses are wrapped as close to the connector as possible without causing tugging/pulling.

Started up,cleared the faults, performed a road test to verify the repair, and released back into service.

12/16/2023

2016 Chrysler 300s AWD

Fuel pump replacement. Not many pics because this was a "get this thing going after the day job" ticket.

Client messaged with an on the money self diag! They checked the fuse and relay, both good. They listened for the primary and auxiliary pumps to prime, only heard the auxillary.

I verified the same, and performed the tried and true starter fluid test. Started and idled on fluid. Double checked fuse and relay, verified. Listened for priming, only the auxillary kicked in, verified.

The lock ring takes longer to remove and reinstall than the actual pump swap. Chrysler gets them TIGHT, and they do not like going back on, but it's nothing Mike can't handle!

10/29/2023

I've been seeing a rise in the "get the codes read at a parts store so you're mechanic can't lie" trend again. I just saw someone say if you don't have the codes before going a mechanic we will add codes. That's not how it works, and let me explain the diagnostic process for you.

Yes, a parts store can pull basic P0### codes. On American manufacturer vehicles until ~2010 this will usually work well enough to get you in the ballpark of what the main issue is. European vehicles that cut off is around 2004. Asian vehicles vary. Some are early cut off, some are late. But most vehicles now throw multiple codes for a problem, and if you've ever been to a game you know that a ballpark isn't small.

When we hook our fancy (and expensive) scan tool up we're seeing every fault detected in every module. We're also looking at what each module is reading. So if you have a P0420, catalyst system operating at low efficiency, you might be inclined to think the catalytic converter is shot. But that's typically not the case, because P0420 is commonly a ride-along fault. We get into the module and read fuel trims, misfire counts and cycles, what the O2 sensors are reading, and any other relative data depending on the manufacturer. We also perform a visual inspection on the vehicle. Are mounts damaged, is a gasket leaking, are all wires intact, is a sensor present? All of these questions help get to the root cause and the appropriate repair.

The diagnostic process eliminates vague guessing games that result in a parts cannon being loaded up and unleashed on your wallet. Whether the cannon is fired by the folks at the parts store, by the vehicle owner, or by the mechanic it's still a drain on your finances, and rarely fixes an issue.

There's a right way and a wrong way to diagnose an issue. Asking how a determination was made, and a walk-through of the process used to determine a repair is correct, is always recommended if you question the validity of a diagnosis. I'm personally ALWAYS happy to show my clients how I came to a conclusion, because it educates them and gives me a chance to show them other issues that need to be addressed.

10/22/2023

2010 VW Passat 2.0T
Round ?

Been through the ringer on this one, as one does with VW stuff. A couple months ago the High Pressure Pump on the block was replaced due to loss of high pressure, ran fine for a few days and then started falling on it's face again. Fault codes for low fuel pressure. Got a new sender assembly in, but it shipped with a broken retaining tab so it's a no-go. Pulled the present assembly to see if we can swap everything good to the OE sender assembly.

New sender in the box, old sender in a bucket, and during the week I'll be performing "surgery" to build a working sender and pump.

Stay tuned!

Edit: forgot to add that I found debris in the tank, so I'll be doing a little cleaning while everything is out. Pretty sure it's from the sender, primarily the pressure regulator mounted to the sender, but it's always best to leave the tank clean to prevent port blocking and sucking up something that will damage the pump.

10/14/2023

2017 Hyundai Elantra GT

Customer states engine sounds loud up on start-up, quiets down after a few minutes but still louder than normal.

Diag: observe sound, test charging rate.
Results: crunchy, alternator outputting 12.81V

Diagnosis: alternator pulley, likely the bearing inside, has failed. Crunchy noises at start, quiets down exactly as the customer said. Upon removal I did the standard observation and spin test. Observable wobble at pulley, and still has some crunch to it eve at low speed.

Resolution: reman alternator from Advance Auto Parts going in, and new belt supplied by the customer.

10/07/2023

It's been a minute since I posted, day job has been keeping me very busy.

Summer is tantamount to being completed, and those coolant system/heater core problems are gonna start poking their heads out. Much like Denzel I am here, I am listening, I am available Saturday and Sunday. Next week I'll be adding business week times for maintenance items and basic repairs. Those times will last until March.

I'm also looking at shirts/hats/etc to throw in as a thank you for repairs. That gives y'all a free item and me free advertisement. If you've been a customer I'll be sending a message about which you'd prefer and dropping them off. Y'all know I take care of you!

Now, down to business! Your friendly neighborhood on-site mechanic has started investing into tool storage solutions, and possibly expanding into ventures involving that. Details as follows:

I've got a Mac Tools double stack, very vintage, that I'm looking to offload. Top box is a 3 full drawer/3 mini drawer flip top with carry tray and the bottom box is a 4 drawer with a large bottom flip-door storage area. I've also got two vintage Matco Tools 5 drawer (4 tool drawer/1large storage drawer) side boxes on dollies. All of it is up for grabs, all of it is Name Your Price. I'm not looking for profit, and I'd prefer they go to someone getting into the industry or looking for solid garage storage solutions. I'll get some pics Monday!

I've also got a few other vintage portable boxes. First is tackle box style small unit with no obvious branding, second is double tackle box style that I believe is a vintage Kennedy unit that was repainted. Still had the green "felt" interior and nameplate, albeit the plate is painted over. Last, but not least, is a gen 1 Rigid Pro portable stack. Two half boxes, one full depth box, one full depth roller with the extendable handle. One of the boxes has a bit of "scarring" from surviving a house fire about a decade back. That really tells you what these boxes are capable of withstanding. Kept my tools safe, the box stayed intact.

All of these are Make An Offer. Again, not looking to make a profit. I'm looking to free up space in the garage and hopefully help someone new to the industry get an entry level storage solution so they can put some tools in it and give them the life they deserve. If you got a kid, neighbor, friend, or random on the internet that needs something this is the post to find it!

Thanks, y'all!

09/11/2023

Maybe I've just been unlucky, maybe unobservant, or maybe this is new.

New heater hose came with these nifty things on the hose clamps, and keeps the clamp open until you get it into place! I'm gonna toss these in the tool box and see about getting a few more printed in larger sizes. These are just neat!

09/04/2023

2016 Chrysler 300S AWD with the 3.6

Follow up after flushing the radiator and replacing the thermostat that was billed by another shop, and never performed.

Those of y'all with the 3.6 know they run hot, but this one is running ice cold in comparison now.

09/02/2023

2016 Chrysler 300 S AWD with the 3.6

****UPDATE****
There's a video in the newest post, so check that out as well. I am 100% about transparency and honesty in repairs.

The vehicle idled correctly, but when it was taken for a drive late Saturday it shot up to 240°F+ again. I went back out yesterday to take a second look. If I'm wrong I'm going to fix it. The last shop to look at it billed out for a significant amount of work, so I wrongly assumed they had integrity and actually performed the work. They didn't.

These 3.6Ls have a sand problem. The heads are sand cast, and we're not properly cleaned before assembly. This leads to sand getting trapped in the radiator. The invoice showed a water pump, a radiator flush, and a thermostat. The water pump was new. The belt was new. The flush was not performed. I drained and captured the coolant, and flushed it myself. A quarter to half a pound of sand came out of the radiator. Yeah, that will cause an obstruction. At idle it was hanging around the 220°F mark. 3.6s run hot, so that's within the margins of spec. Took it for a test drive and it ran up to 253°F, and I limped it back. Symptoms were for a stick closed thermostat, a part they said they replaced. A new thermostat was ordered just to confirm, and if it wasn't the fail point I'd eat the cost of that. But it WAS the fail point. They didn't replace it. They just billed for it. After that it idled at the 208°F mark, and during a later drive it didn't get higher than 221° at 80mph, which is 14° lower than spec.

I also found that other billed work was not performed, and recommended the customer speak with their extended warranty provider before moving forward with actions regarding getting their money back.

Not getting the right diagnosis is bad enough, but charging for work you don't perform and making the rest of the industry look bad after is a whole other thing that makes my blood boil.

********************************************************************

Complaint: water pump, intake plenum, temp sensors all replaced and temp gauge still runs up to 3/4

Hypothesis: engine/radiator cooling fan inoperable until the vehicle reached 180°F-210°F, when high flow mode would engage.

Diagnostics: start vehicle and observe fan assembly, no movement. Disconnect harness, verify voltage and create false high heat signal, plug back in, fan kicks on to high speed. Removed the fan assembly and jumped it directly to the battery, no movement. Remove fan thermistor and observed high heat damage to coating. Baked and crumbling, wire exposed.

Diagnosis: failed low speed resistor in the motor, failed or failing thermistor

Repair: new fan assembly, thermistor included with assembly

Confirmation: start vehicle, fan spins on low speed

If you think you're being taken for a ride, or just want a second opinion, get a second opinion. Occam's Razor (inaccurately paraphrased) is very real, and jumping to large problems is the wrong diagnostic process. Rule out the simple stuff first, because the simplest solution is usually the best. A momentary observing the fan assembly would have this customer taken care of, without performing unnecessary labor. Diag and labor time was ~30 minutes total, and the vehicle had been down for a week.

08/19/2023

2004 Honda Odyssey EX
J35A4

Engine cooling fan replacement
Repair time: 20-30 minutes if you're familiar, 45-60 minutes if you're new to repairs.

No OEM, so I sprung for a yard pull instead. Hooked up the test rig (2x spade terminals on speaker wire, hooked to a Milwaukee M18 battery, bare ends to the contacts) and confirmed function.

Lots of unbolting, but not anything difficult. All but two bolts are 10mm heads. The other two are 8mm and hold the bumper to the fender.

Pull the bumper cover, get the lamp assemblies loose, and hang them. There are two brackets under the lamps that need to be removed in this process. Just set them aside. Use the horns to take the load off the harnesses.

Get your brackets loose, and pull the radiator and condenser forward. Pull the latch bolts and hang it. Place a pan underneath the driver side and pull the upper radiator. Because of the radiator capacity you won't lose much coolant. I lost about a cup or two during this. 8-16oz isn't much in a system that calls for 2 gallons in the rad and almost a quart in the overflow. (Pro-Tip: fill that overflow reservoir to the max line. You'll always have spare coolant to top off without having to deal with finding a jug.)

Once the fan retaining bolts are removed (2x 10mm right at the top) disconnect the fan harness and pull it up and out. There is just enough space for this to happen.

Everything after that is a complete reversal of what you did before. If it's all down correctly then you'll wind up with a functioning fan like in my video clip.

Mike'll Do It

12/23/2023

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