25/10/2015
This set of pictures shows near perfect conditions for the new clutch being installed.
This flywheel is flat, (Picture 1) having been skimmed to remove wear, this is very important when fitting a ceramic / paddle clutch plate, and essential if you are looking to fit a second clutch after the original has been allowed to run down to the rivet heads (these tend to leave scoring on the flywheel face or dishing of the unit). If its damaged too far, has deep or wide heat cracks, specifically ones that run into the inner or outer bore then replace it with new.
The flywheel to crank bolts MUST always be new, these tend to stretch, become damaged and can shear when refitted, again they are a cheap part, but refitting can literally cost thousands.
Use an aliment tool (Picture 2) to make sure the drive is in the correct place, then check the cover and flywheel, do you have dowels present? If so align the cover correctly, ensuring that you are not going to buckle / bend the cover by misfitting on the dowels.
Bolt the cover to the flywheel face, (Picture 3) bolt up diagonally, DO NOT USE an air gun, because this results in the bolt holes becoming stretched, the holes becoming elongated or elliptical all of which lead to clutch issues when running...carefully 'nip up' the cover, this allows any fitting clips to drop out, ensures that some units, such as spring and lever / finger units do not 'drop' a lever and become solid. Repeat process until all bolts are secure and tight.
The clutch is now ready for the release bearing to be fitted.
These pictures belong to Nigel 'Chappers' Chapman, and show part of his Land Rover Cummins Truckfix Bespoke clutch installation...thank you!