Byke Solution

Byke Solution Byke Solution "we make ur believe" Byke solution is a byke servicing center. we repair all kinds of byke . first come,see and than u will choose.

we have experienced engineer to solve ur byke problem.we work of all kinds of body kit and outfighting. u r invited........

megely 4 sell. blue colour. on test. condition fresh
02/01/2013

megely 4 sell. blue colour. on test. condition fresh

01/01/2013

HAPPY NEW YEAR to all....................

26/12/2012

As we know Indian market is fast growing market in two wheeler segment due to large amount of interest in biking and so demand due to lack of imported motorcycles. So generally people tends to change the machine from stock to high performance for either street racing, circuit racing, drag racing or for dirt purpose. Earlier some of the high performance material was not available due to lack of knowledge about material or because of importing it.
Nowadays there are some high performance spares available by some of the direct distributor or importers, for example K&N filters, Piper Cross, MSD Ignitions, NGK, DYNOJET, Microns, TwoBrothers etc. The material is extremely high performance but just by putting few spares you can’t increase the performance due to lack of information. The performance is depending on channels or the way you put those spares in-line. In simple language it’s a kind of computer flow chart.
In the market some people just trying to do business for money. Anyways lets talk about the high performance for Indian motorcycle. Lets start from Filter, In the market you get K&N or Pipercross, LM filters or BMC filters or whatever. When rider or mechanic installs those High Free Flow Filters they generally forget or don’t change some or the other things just to avoid complications.
High Free Flow Filters means Air without any obstruction or rather than increase in Air quantity. Stock Motorcycle comes with some particular ratio of Air and Fuel. For example if the stock has got 5:1 ratio that means 5% is air and 1% is fuel. Now consider Air with Free flow filter is 10%, people always forget to increase the fuel ratio, that means fuel should be 2%. So when you are putting High Free Flow filters don’t forget to increase the ratio of Fuel by Re-Jetting.
High or low number jets are available in the market or you can get it from some local manufacturer with accurate required numbers. Dellorto/Spaco has got jets but not suitable for Mikuni or Keihin because of thread size. In Two wheeler all Indian bikes are coming with Mikuni or Keihin carbs. So make sure about thread sizes. so after Re-Jetting next step is burning all the fuel, that means change in spark plug (NGK-Ir), change in spark plug cable (MSD Ignition Cables), High performance Ignition coil for better and high voltage for burning the fuel.
Next step after plug and it’s cable the main and priority change in Exhaust canister, which people always forget or ignore or avoid to use High Performance Free Flow exhaust canister. The reason behind Free flow high performance canister is, when the intake is increased by some amount the exhaust should also go in that ratio which stock silencers can’t do. For that reason it’s priority to change the canister from stock to high performance (TwoBrothers, Microns, etc). In all mods the channel of modifications should be in route for good performance. So this is the main flow chart for modifications in Indian Motorcycles without tinkering much and very much easy because of external changes. For ECU controlled or EFI system and Carburetor motorcycles some of the modifications are common, But EFI needs some different modification due to it’s ECU, which we need to remap for high performance.
Don’t forget to work on Lubrication for better performance. In the market you might get some high performance l***s like synthetic, semi synthetic oils. Oil is the main factor in the engine for performance, wrong oil grade can decrease the performance rapidly and might damage the motor or moving parts.
Please note: Some of the imported oils are not suitable for Indian Motorcycles, they are very good for Higher CC engines. The major lag of power starts from clutch, so wrong oil can start slippage in clutch. So make sure before you buy and pour in the motor. Now lets move on to Internal changes which I call COREPOWER.
The first change should be clutch springs, the main engine power transmission is through clutch so bad clutch springs or low tension springs kills the BHP, so use proper tension or some high tension clutch springs which should high tension than stock springs. The second step is nitriding of intake and exhaust valves and so the cam, which will reduce the wear and tear. Somehow if you are able to get titanium connecting rod, Valves then nothing like it, but sadly for Indian motorcycle it is still not available.
Anyway, so the next step in internal change which is Big Bore Cylinder. Change to higher size piston for big bore cylinder. After that next change should be Hard Chrome Plating on cylinder bore, which helps the piston for fast motion. The next step is increase in intake bore for better intake. After those changes you will definitely get high performance from your Indian Motorcycle.

26/12/2012

Gadgetry: Aids that draw power from the engine and battery naturally result in more consumption of fuel. This includes over size horns, additional headlights etc. Oversize and wider tyres also increase drag and reduce the fuel efficiency.
Highway Riding: Lower capacity bikes aren’t capable of high speeds on the highway and run out of breath over 80kmph, cruise at 60kmph on such bikes. Larger capacity motorcycles are comfortable cruising at 80kmph speeds but ensure that the engine is not stressed which will ensure optimum mileage. Avoid shifting up and down and try to maintain a sate and constant cruising speed in top gear. Do not open the throttle wide open, a part open throttle is the most efficient throttle opening. Plan overtaking moves well in advance so that you don’t have to brake nor accelerate hard to pass vehicles. Reduce speed by easing off the throttle rather than by using the brakes. Smoothness is the key, in acceleration, in braking and in maintaining speed which will deliver the best mileage.

Weight: Unnecessary accessories like excessively heavy crash guards, enveloping guards on scooters, oversize horns all add to the weight and consequently reduce fuel efficiency. On a 100kg bike even a 5kg increase will have an adverse effect on fuel consumption.
Fuel: Always buy fuel in the morning as it is sold by volume and expands during the day when it gets hot.
Cleanliness: Any leaks will be immediately noticeable on a clean bike and in a roundabout way will have an effect on the fuel efficiency. Dirt on the chain, in between moving parts etc will increase drag and consequently lower fuel efficiency.
Octane: Check the owners manual on what quality of petrol your bike requires. Modern bikes run a very high compression ratio and need high octane fuel (93 octane fuel is available in the metros) to run without knocking. Octane boosters (recommended on the Pulsar) also do a good job of controlling knock. However on engines designed to run on 83 octane petrol using higher octane rating petrol or octane boosters will have no effect other than lightening your wallet. Remember that higher the octane rating higher the price per litre.
Tanking Up: Do not tank up right to the brim. Not only is there a chance of spillage while filling up, petrol also expands with heat and can overflow. Filler caps on many bikes do leak once the rubber seal hardens and cracks. Tank up from busy and well know fuelling stations where quality and quantity are assured.
Engine Efficiency: Specific output is the most reliable indicator of engine efficiency. Specific output is defined as the ratio between power and displacement and higher the specific output in terms of PS/litre the more efficient the engine is. Lower emissions are also a sign of a more efficient engine. For example an engine designed to meet Euro II norms will be more efficient than a Euro I compliant engine. However an efficient engine will not necessarily translate into better fuel efficiency as it might be powering a heavier motorcycle and geared more for performance.

22/12/2012

If anybody fall in problem with their byke....dont forget to call us.....we always ready help u any time...........

Gadgetry: Aids that draw power from the engine and battery naturally result in more consumption of fuel. This includes o...
20/12/2012

Gadgetry: Aids that draw power from the engine and battery naturally result in more consumption of fuel. This includes over size horns, additional headlights etc. Oversize and wider tyres also increase drag and reduce the fuel efficiency.
Highway Riding: Lower capacity bikes aren’t capable of high speeds on the highway and run out of breath over 80kmph, cruise at 60kmph on such bikes. Larger capacity motorcycles are comfortable cruising at 80kmph speeds but ensure that the engine is not stressed which will ensure optimum mileage. Avoid shifting up and down and try to maintain a sate and constant cruising speed in top gear. Do not open the throttle wide open, a part open throttle is the most efficient throttle opening. Plan overtaking moves well in advance so that you don’t have to brake nor accelerate hard to pass vehicles. Reduce speed by easing off the throttle rather than by using the brakes. Smoothness is the key, in acceleration, in braking and in maintaining speed which will deliver the best mileage.

Weight: Unnecessary accessories like excessively heavy crash guards, enveloping guards on scooters, oversize horns all add to the weight and consequently reduce fuel efficiency. On a 100kg bike even a 5kg increase will have an adverse effect on fuel consumption.
Fuel: Always buy fuel in the morning as it is sold by volume and expands during the day when it gets hot.
Cleanliness: Any leaks will be immediately noticeable on a clean bike and in a roundabout way will have an effect on the fuel efficiency. Dirt on the chain, in between moving parts etc will increase drag and consequently lower fuel efficiency.
Octane: Check the owners manual on what quality of petrol your bike requires. Modern bikes run a very high compression ratio and need high octane fuel (93 octane fuel is available in the metros) to run without knocking. Octane boosters (recommended on the Pulsar) also do a good job of controlling knock. However on engines designed to run on 83 octane petrol using higher octane rating petrol or octane boosters will have no effect other than lightening your wallet. Remember that higher the octane rating higher the price per litre.
Tanking Up: Do not tank up right to the brim. Not only is there a chance of spillage while filling up, petrol also expands with heat and can overflow. Filler caps on many bikes do leak once the rubber seal hardens and cracks. Tank up from busy and well know fuelling stations where quality and quantity are assured.
Engine Efficiency: Specific output is the most reliable indicator of engine efficiency. Specific output is defined as the ratio between power and displacement and higher the specific output in terms of PS/litre the more efficient the engine is. Lower emissions are also a sign of a more efficient engine. For example an engine designed to meet Euro II norms will be more efficient than a Euro I compliant engine. However an efficient engine will not necessarily translate into better fuel efficiency as it might be powering a heavier motorcycle and geared more for performance.

15/12/2012

Electric Starter Fails

This is a useful feature that can save us the embarrassment of causing a traffic jam after stalling the engine. You may find it not working on some fine morning. Check for the following signs:

Battery level: The battery may have run out of acid which must have reduced its efficiency, if you notice that the starter works once you start riding for a long time, but doesn’t when you try in the morning, get the battery acid levels checked. Your bike charges the battery as you ride so just keep it filled up at the first signs of trouble.

Starter Relay: This is part of the electric system that provides current to the starter, sometimes a failure of this component can stop the starter from working, if you hear just a “tick” noise from the starter every time you press the starter button, it may be either because of a low battery or a failing starter relay.

Electric Starter FailsThis is a useful feature that can save us the embarrassment of causing a traffic jam after stallin...
15/12/2012

Electric Starter Fails

This is a useful feature that can save us the embarrassment of causing a traffic jam after stalling the engine. You may find it not working on some fine morning. Check for the following signs:

Battery level: The battery may have run out of acid which must have reduced its efficiency, if you notice that the starter works once you start riding for a long time, but doesn’t when you try in the morning, get the battery acid levels checked. Your bike charges the battery as you ride so just keep it filled up at the first signs of trouble.

Starter Relay: This is part of the electric system that provides current to the starter, sometimes a failure of this component can stop the starter from working, if you hear just a “tick” noise from the starter every time you press the starter button, it may be either because of a low battery or a failing starter relay.

Bad BrakesBrakes are one of the most important elements of a bike and it is even more important  in India as they must b...
09/12/2012

Bad Brakes

Brakes are one of the most important elements of a bike and it is even more important in India as they must be prepared to stop before the odd obstacles they may find every day.

Drum Brakes: If you face poor braking on the drum brakes at the rear or front of the bike, you must check for free play of the brake lever or pedal. If there is too much of a free play, tighten the bolt as shown in the picture, you must tighten it to a point where the wheels will be able to rotate freely and you would be able to apply maximum pressure.

Another reason for poor drum brake performance can be dirty brake pads and build up of brake dust. If you have a bike that has been driven for over 20,000Km’s and if you experience weak braking without the squeaking noise, you may have a dirty brake pad. You can get it cleaned and serviced at your local workshop. If you happen to notice the squeaking noise every time you apply the brakes, it may be time to replace the pads.

Disc Brakes: If you happen to face poor disc brake performance, don’t worry, it’s nothing that can’t be fixed. Firstly check for brake fluid levels, and whether it is filled up well. If there is enough fluid and if you still have the problem, you can do something known as air bleeding, sometimes, air gets into the tube between the pump and the callipers and this can reduce the braking force. Even though it can be done by you, it is recommended to take it to the bikes service centre. Air bleeding can not only improve brake performance, it can also increase the feel and sharpness of the brakes. Also try pumping the disc brakes, that is, by applying the brake with full force and releasing, for about 10-20 times (while stationary), this can also provide a boost in braking power.

Also, If you happen to notice weird metal scraping noises coming from the disc brakes even when you have are not applying the brakes, it’s about time to replace the brake pads, if you continue to ride for over 500 Km’s in this condition, you may end up damaging the discs which can cost quite a lot.

05/12/2012

6 TIPS OF MAINTAINING BYKE

04/12/2012

6 TIPS OF MAINTAINING BYKE

1. Tyre Air Pressure: Ensure tyre pressures are maintained at manufacturer recommended levels. Different pressures are recommended for single seat and pillion riding, observe them to squeeze out the optimum mileage. Over-inflated tyres do result in better mileage but play havoc with the ride, handling and stability, so don’t get desperate.

2. Brakes: Both the brakes should have the right amount of free play. To check that brakes are not binding, put the bike on the main stand and ensure that both the wheels turn freely.

3. Chain: The chain should be well lubricated and have the right amount of slack. You can read more about Motorcycle Chain Maintenance.

4. Air filter: Keep the air filter clean as dusty conditions in India tend to clog up the filter in no time. Change the air filter at recommended intervals and increase the cleaning frequency in particularly dusty climes. Clutch: Should be properly adjusted and have the right amount of free play. An over tightened clutch will cause it to slip unnoticeably and increase the fuel consumption while also burning it out quickly.

5. Engine: Again regular servicing and tune-ups will keep the engine running like clockwork and reduce your petrol bills. Pay special attention to cleaning the carburettor and maintaining valve clearences. Don’t neglect the spark plug, ensure it is clean, the gap is set correctly or replace it if past its prime as it’s the most crucial link in proper combustion. Most modern bikes require the choke to be used on cold starts as they run lean to meet emission norms as well as fuel efficiency requirements.

6. Engine Oil: Engine oil should be changed religiously. The oil thickens due to carbon deposits creating drag in the movement of engine internals. Running the bike on dirty oil will not only increase fuel consumption but also reduce the life of the engine.

Address

Oposite Road Of Al Amin Hospital, West Firozshaha Colony, A. K Khan, Pahartali
Chittagong
4207

Telephone

01681252565

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